The mountain system of Middle Asia is foldable, which should lie down to the largest mountain systems of the Euro-Asian mountain belt. The Republic of Uzbekistan lies up to the largest regions of the world.
Paired with the mountains of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, the mountains of Uzbekistan are not high. The stench can be seen up to the mid-altitude mountains ( 2000-2500
m above the sea level). Vishcha point to Uzbekistan - Babatag ( 4688
m), planting near the Gisar Range in the territory of the Surkhandar'insk region. The height of the gir gradually decreases at the forward straight. Most of the mountain ranges in Uzbekistan may be latitudinal or sublatitudinal stretching, depending on their roztashovanі and mizhgіrskі ugolovini. Vinyatkom є deyaki winds of the Gissar ridge (Baysuntau, Surkhantau, Kugintangtau, Babatag,), which stretch in the pivdenno-zahіdny, mayzhe in the meridional straight line.
A characteristic feature of the region.
Before Western Tien Shan one can see a ridge with ridges that one can see, Maidantalsky that . Near its borders, the Chatkal ridge may have great winds - , і Kuraminsky you can enter from the Pskemsky ridge, and burn from the Ugamsky ridge.
The orographic basis of the district is the distribution of river basins. Talas that . The narrow skelyasty ridge of the ridge can be wide spread. Pivdenniy skhil of turns is not clear enough, the oscillators of the new one have a number of tight winds, among them the largest -. Tsei ridge waters the basin overlooking the river, which takes the cob on pivdenno-shidnyh skhily.
Up to the pіvdenno-zahіdnoї outskirts of the Chatkal ridge, the temple of Angren plateau adjoins, over which the Kuramіnskiy ridge hangs, which, behind the nature of the relief, guesses the part of the Chatkal region.
Mayzha is parallel to the view, and also near the right-westward straight line, the Maidantalsky and ridges enter. Numerous rivers flow down from these schilis, which will revive the main water arteries of the Western Tien Shan - i.
The other warehouse of Chirchik, the river, starts in the ice rinks and snows of the Talas Alatau. Vitokami Pskem є Maidantalі Oygaing, after the anger of such a river flowing at the narrow gorge through the numerical rapids.
At the area of the Charvak reservoir, Chatkal and Pskem are angry, appeasing Chirchik- The largest rich-water tide of the Sirdar.
- the largest right tide - falls into the new lower for Charvak HPS. To live Ugam with dzherels and strings, which stick in zі schiliv and її vіdroga -.
not rich on the lakes. The largest view of them is Sarichelek. Behind the roses are small dams and moraines of the lake roztashovani in the gorges, the inflow of the head rivers to the area. The dismemberment of the relief of the Western Tien Shan gave rise to climatic vіdmіnnostі, scho lie in the absolute height of mіstsevnosti, the relief of this davit and exposition.
climate.
It is cold and dry near the Talas valley. At the Pskema valley the climate is warm, mild, with no atmospheric precipitation: the fires protect from the cold winter winds, but do not obscure the passage of the warm and wet weather from sunset, At the majestic Chatkal valley, the climate is greater to the Fergana Valley, where heat-loving tyutyun, corn, and fruit trees grow. The most rainy month in the Western Tien Shan is a linden, if it often warms up to 40 ° C again, although the average monthly temperature may be twice as low. Absolute minimum reach minus 30°, for deyaky missions i minus 40°. The frost-free period in the greater part of the Western Tien Shan is less 200
days Kіlkіst opadіv uzimka revisit 200
mm, and at the top of Pskem reach 1200
mm. In the spring-summer period, there is especially rich fall (up to 65
mm) fall at the birch-tree, the least number of them is at the linden. Snіg lie іz leaf fall to birch.
In the height of the snowy slope, there is a lot of water near the rivers, which forms its own stack at the lower part of the mountain ranges. Even more often, such rivers are less likely to have a timchasovy runoff - during the period of tanning snow and the passage of woods.
Roslinny and creaturely light.
For the growing and creaturely world Western Tien Shan characteristic is the vertical zonality of its subdivision.
At the front and middle parts of the Talaska Valley, there is a belt of steppes, more - meadow-steppes, more - meadows. On the slopes of the Talas Alatau, bows, bows, curtains of juniper grow. There are wild goats, babaks, stone chickens - kekliks, high in the mountains - girsk іndichki - ulari.
Pivdenno-skhіdnі skhili occupied by herbaceous steppes, subalpine and alpine bows, which vicorist under the flock. In the middle of the steppe and meadow areas, massifs of mountain forests tread, like roaming along the river valleys and the ridges of the mountains.
In the forest massifs of Prchatkall, you can grow hairy peas, wild apple trees, plums, Tien Shan yalinka, yalytsya, and juniper. The world of creatures of the girsky forests is already rich. There are wild boars, porcupines, bears, stone martens, babaks, fox dormouse, thousands of different birds.
Behind the floods of Chatkal, this large influx of foxes, birches, willows, poplars, thickets of thorns, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn, and black currants grow. At the lower part of the valley there are wider subdecudes of the rozoran fescue-and polyno-herb steppe; on the pіvnіch vіd stepu zі stepovoї timofіїvka, pirіyu povzuchoy, prangos fodder, more often spread subalpine and alpine bows. The Chatkal Valley is a great cattle region, which is of great importance for the development of wildlife in Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan.
The middle gorsky belt of the Akhangaran valley is a forest region, rich in archa, maple, glodu, in the wild sai you can grow apple, alich, gorobina. Vcheni vvazhayut, that earlier the gіrskі skhili tsієї valleys were succesfully covered with wooden splint, as if by luck the bula was built up. Now the cutting of trees and chagarniks is completely fenced.
In the middle valleys of Chatkal, along Koksu and Pskem, thickets of tall trees, birches, poplars, bushes of tamarisk, honeysuckle, herbs, sea buckthorn, wild grapes, and springs grow. Below, near the district of Chatkal and Pskem, there are a lot of fruit trees: apple, apricot, alich, pear. Shili gіr covered behind thickets and okremi gayami walnut pea, maple, poplar.
Natural conservation reserves.
On the territory of the Western Tien Shan, three great reserves have been planted: Aksu-Dzhabaglinsky, Sari-Cheletskyі Chatkal.
Archaeological notes.
The isolation of the camp of the Western Tien Shan, especially the upper reaches of Chirchik, caused those that there were very few reports about the new one. This region, which lay on the side of the great caravan routes, was a kind of deaf kut, which always made do with the conquerors and mandriving men. It is not surprising that ancient geographers do not tell about the Western Tien Shan, as they wrote about the places of the Fergana and Talas valleys.
As it was established, the main occupations of the ancient inhabitants of the Western Tien Shan were filled with water. About tse, zokrema, to speak of numerically on the rock little old people who represent different creatures. Such little ones were found on the territory of the Aksu-Dzhabagly and Chatkal nature reserves in the village of Khodjikent on the slopes of the peak of the Great Chimgan.
The great populated areas roared out, near the front part. So, for a long time there was a great place Isfijab, which had taken away from the X century. named Sairam (Chimkent region). The excavation of ancient miners near the Akhangaran valley, archaeologists date back to X-XII centuries. Approximately one hour the places grew, the ruins of which are known near the Talas valley. Miraculous architectural memorial of the 13th century, Shah-Fazil mausoleum, roztashovaniya near the Kasansay valley.
The cob of the Western Tien Shan.
Science event Western Tien Shan It began like the nineteenth century, after the arrival of Turkestan to Russia. The first Russian scientist, who penetrated the upper Chatkal, was a zoologist and zoogeographer N. A. Severtsov. At 1866 p. having reached the Talasskiy Alatau through the Karabura pass and reached the upper part of the Chatkal valley.
In 1874 p. rozpochav his dear Central Asia geologist and geographer I. V. Mushketov. Crossing the mountains of Korzhantau, crossing from the Pskem valley to Chatkal, then near Talas, reaching the top slopes of the Chatkal ridge and the upper Angren. Five years later another geologist, D. L. Ivanov ice break in the Pskem valley.
Among the pre-revolutionary achievements of the Western Tien Shan can be called B. A. Fedchenko, V.I. Lipsky, O. A. Shkapskogo.
Mushketov Ivan Vasilovich (1850-1902) However, at the same time, the expedition along the Zahidny Tien Shan became more expensive, the system was improved, and the peculiarities of the similarity of the scientists were shown. And the smut, a lot of time, were the floorings of short hours and swidkoplennymi, which at times were separated by more than swedish guards.
After the Zhovtnevoy revolution on the right, the settlement of the Western Tien Shan changed fundamentally. Great work for the development of the district of the provіv utvoreniya in 1920 Turkestan (Tashkent, ninі National) state university. Geologists, botanists, zoologists, hydrologists began to work regularly near the first rocks of Radyansk vlad near the mountains. At that hour, for example, special expeditions were created for the organization of the reserves of Aksu-Dzhabagly and Sari-Cheleksky, there were searches for brown kopalins on the pivdennyh skhilas of the Chatkal mountains, near the Akhangaran valley, at the top of Chirchik, in front of the Talas Alatau.
Western Tien Shan at once.
Valley of the river Pskem. The stretch of thinness. For the whole hour, the Western Tien Shan is being actively settled. Flocks of sheep are grazing on the slopes of the mountain, various varieties of valuable fruit crops are growing, and healthy deposits are being made. On the rivers, hydroelectric stations, pieced seas were created, for example, Charvak and Kasansay reservoirs. Following the successors, lulled by blessed climatic minds, they went to the mountains, to be sure, the townspeople. The year of the lovers of the high prices became the Daedalus more, and for example 50s On the outskirts of Chimgan, the first hostel appeared in Uzbekistan. Now, near the mountains of the Zahidny Tien Shan, there are sprat camp sites: "Pivdenna" (Chimkent region), "Koksaray" (Namangan region), "Chimgan" and "Yangiabad" (Tashkent region).
Western Tien Shan, roztashovaniya on the territory of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, є zruchny for more expensive. Є numerical roads and stitches. Dirt roads Mayzha walk up to all the gorges of the pivnichnoy shila of the Talas Alatau, and along the gorge of Karabura the road through the one-man pass leads to the valley of Chatkal, where you can see the gorge of the river tributary. The road from Chatkal goes to the Ferghana Valley through the Chapchama pass, overlooking a lot of paths near the tributaries of the Kasansay. Roads are in the river valleys that go down to the Fergana gorge.
Tien Shan - "Heavenly burn" - sprawling on the majestic space. Larger lower at 2500 km. yogo ridges stretched through the central part of Asia, over 1200 km. znahodyatsya in the boundaries of the colossal SRSR.
The central part of the mountainous system is the largest temple, which may be parallel to the latitudinal ridges of the similar Tien Shan, which lies at the borders of China. The entire central and western parts of the Tien Shan are located on the territories of the many allied republics. Here, near the folding intertwined ridges, the largest peaks of the Tien Shan rise: the peak of Peremogi (7439m) and Khan-Tengri (7010m).
Zvіdsi ridges diverge again at the western straight.
Pivnіchni ridges of the largest part of the Tien Shan - Zailiysky and Kungei Alatau surround the great highland lake Issik-Kul. The ridges of the Kirghiz Alatau, Talassky, Ugamsky, Pskemsky and Chatkalsky ranges stretch to the west, for a little less significant. This series of many parallel ridges will improve the Ferghana Valley.
Right off the bat, the Central Tien Shan fences are covered with a short lancet gir, straightened out from pivnochi to pivden, - by the Meridional ridge. Latitudinal ridges enter into the west from the new one: Sarijasky and Tersky-Alatau, Stalin, Kayndi and the majestic Kokshaal-tau, which stalks the central part of the Tien Shan from the day. At the entrance, part of the mountainous system ends with the Ferghana Range, which stretches from the first day to the first stop.
At the borders of the tsikh between, the impersonal gіr is stashed. They are crowned either by snow cones or by gostri peaks. Not all of the Central Tien Shan is an area of high snowy mountains. The stench is concentrated more importantly between the Meridional ridge and the other Akshiryak ridge parallel to you. In the distance, a significant part of the expanse is occupied by rounded, most importantly snowless mountains, which are interspersed with great humpbacked flat-mountains - Sirts.
A series of ridges, which may be called the Pamir-Altai, can be seen from the western-western kut of the Central Tien-Shan. A lot of vchenih vvazhayut that they also belong to the Tien Shan system. The Alay Ridge was built to protect the Alay Mountains, which will restore the Ferghana Valley from the day. At its end, the Alay Ridge makes a tight vuzol and expands into the Zeravshan and Gissar ridges. The Turkestan Ridge can be seen from the first distance.
Central and inner Tien Shan
Behind the orographic budovaya Tien Shan, call for Pivnichniy, Zakhidniy, Centralnyy, Vnutrishnyy and Skhidnyy (the rest of China). Tourists and mountaineers call for their classification of the Central and Inner Tien Shan, enter the region of the Kayndi, Inilchek-Too, Sari-Jazz, Tengri-Tag ridges in a similar part of the central Tien Shan, and the Kuilshu, Akshimirak, Narin-Tibel, - Bishi ta reshtu of the Terskey Ala-tau ridge just to the Central Tien Shan.
HISTORY OF THE CENTRAL TIAN SHAN
Before the mountains of the Tien Shan, as and other regions of Central Asia, were populated from prehistoric times. Follow the rebuvannya of the ancient people found in the rich valleys of the Tien Shan, including in the yogi high part; The deacons of knowledge are dated more than a thousand years before our time. Navit at the bottom of the high-mountain lake Issik-Kul є relics of ancient budіvels. However, reports about the mountains of the Tien Shan, and more about the high part of the central part, leaked into geographical science even more correctly. Knowledge of the Tien Shan was accumulated by the same paths, like in other mountainous regions of Asia. From the first glance, the high Tien Shan Bov, perhaps, in still unfriendly minds, lower Pamir. The Mongolian peoples from the shidnoy part of Asia collapsed on the way to the pivnich from the main lanceugs of the Central Tien Shan, through the Dzungarian gates. The trade ways, which are connected with Skhid and Zakhid, also commemorated these ridges, and ale z pivnochi chi z pivdnya.
On the day, by the pool of the river. Tarim, the legendary land of the Isedons "Serika" was known, through the yak in the western regions came Chinese seams. The Greek geographer and historian Herodotus told about the rise in price to these lands of Aristas Prokonessky (VII century BC), moreover, according to yoga words, on the pіvnіch vіd mіsts, inhabited by іssedonami and їkhіdnimi suіdі agripami, there are few houses of the temple and inaccessible land . . Here at these places passing the route is more expensive, described by Maeom Titianus.
Earlier, it was said about those that the first reliable information about the geography of Central Asia was obtained by Chinese mandrivers. Zokrema, Zhang Tszan pid one's hour "raise the road to the Ferghana Valley (126 BC), having overturned, perhaps, a part of the Tien Shan and felt the white of Lake Issik-Kul. Chinese Geography of the Hours of the Han Dynasty (114 p.). to N. Pivnіchny way through Tsun-lin (Lukovi Gori, which included the Pamir and the western part of the Tien Shan), which leads to the stop at Kokand and to the vvnіchny stop, to the area of the Aral Sea.
The first Chinese Buddhist mantras, in a vague pose, passed to India's midday frontiers of the Tien Shan. The famous Xuan Jiang (VII century) having made his way from China with a pivnіchnoy road to Hami, then turned back to the west, passing through the air of the Tien Shan to Aksu. Zvіdsi vіn anew rushiv on pіvnіch і overturning the ridges of the Central Tien Shan, and in the first year describing the snowy mountains. It’s important to set it up, like a pass of wines. Bo vvazhaєtsya, scho vіyshov on the skhіdny shore of the lake. Issik-Kul, vvazhayut that the mandriva koristuvavsya Muzart pass. This visnovka was given a name, which is induced in the description, Shin-Shan, which in translation means krizhana (abo snow) mountain.
As it seems, Muz-tau is confirmed by the Turkic my own, and the pass is Muzart. Ale z Aksu vin z with such success itself, a moment of ruin and up to the Bedel pass. Tsei even an important transition, having dealt with an unforgettable hostility to Xuan Jiang. Especially unsafe buv pass. A lot of Xuan Jiang's companions perished in the mountains. Mandrivnik describes the peaks of the Tien Shan in this way: sparkling ice gravitate towards the bezmezhnist and get angry with the gloom. The way often passes between the crying peaks, which hang from both sides, and through the high crying masses.
Xuan Jiang is ahead, that in these places it is not possible to wear a red robe, it is not possible to speak in a voice, otherwise an indistinguishable bidi is minted on a mandrill, snow and stones fall down thinly.
With the advance of the advancing thousand, it is not necessary for science to get any new news about the Tien Shan highlands every year. Starting from the 8th century, the panuvannya of the Arab conquerors was established near Central Asia, and until the invasion of Genghis Khan in the 12th-13th centuries. The Tien Shan lies on the side of the trade routes and is not seen by those who are mandriving. Poor data about this country in the Arab geography of that hour, in fact, is no more than knowledge, which is found in the Chinese dzherels of the 7th-8th centuries.
Less in the XVIII century. The statements about the Tien Shan have become deplorable. In 1708 p. єzuїtskі mіsіonery started for the assignments of Іkhun Lung - the emperor of China before the folding of the map of yogi volodіn and the summіzhny kraїn. For a stretch of ten years, Hallerstein, Felix Aroga and Espini, for the help of the grandiose knowledge of the Chinese earth-worlds, raised the country. Folded as a result of the work, the map was seen in 1821. Proteza zahіdna chastina China Bula was mapped later, in the middle of the XVIII century. To collect material from the region, the survivors of the lake. Issik-Kul and visited the river valley. Abo. The map has a small miraculous peculiarity: the laying of the її porіvnyа exactly marked the geographic distribution of the riches seen by them for the stars, - this method has long been used by China. To that їhnyu pratsyu stretching out rich roki served as the basis for rich other piznіshi maps.
Deyakі vіdomosti about Tien-Shan bouli vіdіmі і russian. So, for example, at the vіdomіy "Book of the Great Armchair" (end of the 16th century), the folding of which was rozpochato for the order of Ivan the Terrible, the upper part of the bunks. Sir-Dar'ї is depicted more clearly, lower than in the British mandrake Wood (1838). This is not surprising: it seems that trade links between the Moscow state and the lands of Asia are based on old, long ago. Not only merchants, but also embassies, as if they were specially handed over to describe the sights of the country, penetrated from Moscow to Skhid. So, for example, O.I. Baikov, the ambassador of Tsar Oleksiy Mikhailovich, on the way to Peking through Dzungaria.
Іz cob XVIII Art. The Russians have made their report more familiar from Central Asia, the core of the її skhіdnoy part, to which the Tien Shan lies.
Peter the First pragne to set up a transfer from India on the bunk. Amu Dar'e. Two expeditions traveled to Asia: Colonel Buchholz to Siberia and Prince Bekovich-Cherkasky to the Transcaspian region. The offenses of the expedition, as it seems, were not far off. Among the rich participants in the smashed corral of Buchholz, yak drank in full to Kalmiki, Buv Swede I. Renat. Having tried in full 17 years (1716-1733), I got to know Dzungaria well. At Europe, Renat turned with the map he had folded of Dzungaria and the adjacent parts of Siberia and Central Asia. The map for a long time was unknown, and a copy of it was found only on the example of the 70s of the 19th century. in one of the Swedish libraries and then published in 1881. Russian Geographical Society. Navit at the time of publication, the map was rich in what was wrong.
Chimalo gave for knowledge Central Asia F. Efremov's house is more expensive. In 1774 p. Yogo Bulo was carried out in full at Bukhara. There, Efremov, becoming an officer at the military khan and zdijsniv low rise in price to the southern lands. The tightness in the fatherland rattled Yogo in the flow. The way to the west was closed, and Efremov rushed to the exit: through Kokand and Kashgar I made my way to , from India to Kashmir and India, and from India to England. At Russia, I turned less than 1782. Efremov, the first of the Europeans, passed through the Terekdavan Pass.
From the beginning of the 1930s, the Russian power was poured into the midst of the feudal lords of the nomadic tribes of the so-called "Kyrgyz steppe" (Pivnichny Kazakhstan) the floorings were built up, which became more expensive to the lower part of Central Asia, became accessible, and to that part it was later. Yakshcho captain Unkovsky in 1823. setting a map of Dzungaria for the rise of tribute, then already in 1832. Lieutenant Colonel Ugryumov decided to make a map of the whole region of Asia for special warnings.
Like the other regions of Asia, like the Tien-Shan, the period of collecting partial data will end with the appearance of the great and formidable works of A. Humboldt, K. Ritter and, three years later, Richthofen. A. Humboldt was the first to try not to mention all the information about the geography of Asia, and also to encourage the development of the orography system of the mainland.
An important role in the formation of the Bula was introduced to the Tien Shan, like Humboldt, having protected the mountains of Asia to the head latitudinal lands. The notification about the qi dosі may be unknown burn at the vchenny was even more familiar. Yogo described a lot of right volcanoes. The Tien Shan is intertwined with the legendary Bolor ridge, and on the way it is followed by the Asferk ridge, which ends at the meridian of Samarkand. Nearby the stars near the ridge there is a volcanic group Botm. The Arab geographer Idіsi speaks about volcanoes. Bolor Humboldt names in Tien Shan Terek-tag, Kok-Shal, Temurtu-tag, volcanoes Bai-Shan, Turfan and in. Lantsyug ends at the meridian of Hami and knows in the sands of the desert Gobi. The author of a smart look at the Tien Shan and how the larger wide mountainous country, vvazhayuchi, that the Caucasus is the western part of the development of the Tsgogo lancer mountain, and on the way, beyond the Gobi, it is necessary to turn on the mountain In-shal before the new one, so that you can reach out to save Pacific Ocean. The geology at that hour is small, even more clearly pronounced "volcanic directly." It is possible that, through the inaccurate reports of old authors, Humboldt, at times, made the Tien Shan a great center of active volcanic activities. It didn’t sound like those that violated the main law, for which volcanoes lie on the surface of the Earth, the main rank of islands and near the shores of the great sea basins.
Humboldt distinguished the center of volcanic activities in the Tien Shan. Particularly intense, on yoga thought, there may be at the gathering, white Urumchi, near Kulja, Turfan, near the lake. Issik-Kul. The centers of the volcanic area of experiences include Bogdo-olo and the majestic Bai-Shan volcano.
At that hour, Bai-Shan - the mountain, behind the Chinese dzherel, was considered a volcano to that, the deacons called Ho-Shan (Fire Mountain). The second mandrivnik, Meyer, mistaking Mount Urten-tau for a volcano only through the її name, as in translation it means Burning hill.
Already 1840 p. A. Shrenk pіd his hour rises to the Dzungarian Alatau dovіv, which is the island of Aral-Tube in the lake. Alakol is not a volcano, in contrast to Humboldt's thoughts, which are based on the unfaithful witnesses of other mandrivniki. Twelve years on that, the hirsky engineer Vlangali, who saw this month, also did not reveal the traces of volcanism and volcanic rocks. The high mountain was lost and part of the Tien Shan is still inaccessible. Since there are no volcanoes in the outskirts of the mountainous region, then, perhaps, the stink in the center? Ale and tse pitanya science vіdpovіla porіvnyano shvidko.
On the cob of the 50s of the past century, the Russian troops took the title of Zailiysky Krai. At 1845 p. in front of the Trans-Ili Alatau, the monument of Virniy (now m. Almaty) was founded.
More than the first booth near Virny, yet in the mountain valleys continued to be closed between the thorny canopies of the Kirghiz, and then, having collapsed to the Tien Shan, the young botanist P.P. .
P. P. Semyonov is considered to be a galaxy of miraculous Russian mandrivers of the 19th century, Doslednikov with a wide range of training and interests. Being a botanist for fach, he selected and studied important materials from the orography and geological life, fauna of the region, describing the population. “My respect,” P.P. Semyonov wrote in the Geographical Suspіlstvo after the end of the expedition, “became more important on the completion of the mountain passes, so that the height of their signifies the middle height of the ridges, and the rozrіz - the geographic profile and not the prospects of the future mountains the importance of my way of success between the dry lands.
Winding curtains 1856 from St. Petersburg, P.P. The evening of the next day at the escort of a small corral of vines, breaking the bridle of the front of the Pivnichny Tien Shan. Naskilki were wild at that hour of the month, you can judge if you want to, while Semenov robbed the excursion up the valley of the river. Issik, Yogo companions fell for the tiger.
Having crossed the Zailiisky and Kungei Alatau ridges, a small zagіn reached the hidden shore of the lake. Issik-Kul i, having been here for more than a year, turned back. Deshcho pіznіshe Semyonov far away saw the shores of the lake. Tse allowed you to z'yasuvati important nutrition hydrography of the Tien Shan.
At 1856 p. The last one didn't get far enough away from the Central Tien Shan. Vіn Lishe Spezerіgav in the building of Yogo Snіovі Rankti, Scho Pіdіymayuzu behind the lake: "Zei's all Tsyui Siniy Basain Issik-kulu Bow of the closets with a blank lantaliel Snigovy Velіvіv. Tian-Shan, taking a cool Stinue the shards were just a glimpse of them, beyond the distance they stood on the pivden entry, hovered over the horizon, then the snowy peaks were built directly out of the dark blue waters of the lake.
Having spent the winter in Barnaul, Semyonov turned to Virniy on the spring of 1857; Tsgogo times vіn obstezhiv significantly more part of the Tien Shan, the main rank of skhіd і pіvdenny skhіd vіd oz. Issik-Kul. Dyishovshi to the shore of the lake, passing over Terskey-Alatau through the most accessible Zaukinskiy pass (Dzhuuka pass) and leaning in the Sirt region of the upper Narin. Zvіdsi mandrivnik turning back to Issik-Kul. Potim zagіn destroying the eel with the valley of the river. Name Kokzhar to the pass.
From the pass in front of Semyonov’s eye, a grandiose panorama was seen above: “If we got close to the top of the mountain passage, we were blinded by an unbearable sight. , folded from snowy winds, such as I am right-handed and left-handed, in a moment I got no less than thirty. heights, there was a gostra pyramid, as if it was built from the heights of the pass, the height of the other peaks of the vdvіchі was reversed ...
The sky was absolutely bezkhmarne from the sides, and just on Khan-Tengri there was a small haze, which with a light wine removed its blind white girsku pyramid troch below the її peaks.
Three years of trials on the pass. Going down to the valley of the river. Sarijaz, Semyonov, having stitched the top and rising, as they say, on the pivnіchnі shchi of Tengri-Tag, obviously, the pivnіchnі shіla of the Sarijas ridge).
At the valley of Sarijazu the last few days passed. At the turns of the river, there is a part of the majestic ice rink, which he called the "Kryzhany Sea", which, like you were given, descending from the slopes of Khan-Tengri. Zgod Ignatiev, naming the entire ice rink after Semenov.
P.P. Semenov-Tyan-Shansky was the first to penetrate the Central Tien Shan, having described the Khan-Tengri group. I did not have a chance to go through the details of Tengri-tag and other hirsk districts. Tse fell on the lot of other scientists. Semyonov did not go far to visit the Tien Shan again. And those who have grown up in zoom, have conquered the history of geography as a scientific feat.
Semyonov, obviously, did not know any volcanoes in the Tien Shan: "As a result of my efforts, I did not know any volcanoes, nor did I know any volcanic rocks near the Heavenly Range." Natomist mandrivnik has broken great ice-floods, especially in the Tengry-tag group, and having set the height of the snow line at the mountainous region, which is significant for the Caucasus and the Alps, the Pyrenees.
Semyonov, having articulated the first, based on factual material, the scheme of orography of the Tien Shan. Until recently, there was a notification about a single mountain lancer near the other part of the mountainous region, which, behind the Muzart pass, was roaming on the way to two different ridges. Lake Issik-Kul was painted on a pivnіch in the view of the first demarcation of the mountain lancers. Semyonov could give a more accurate statement about the ridges of the peninsular part of the Tien Shan: Zaіlіyskiy Alatau and Kungey Alatau (the rest of the wines called the Pіvdenny ridge of the Zaіlіyskiy Alatau). Vіn nominating that these ridges were tied between themselves by the Kemino-Chilіtska jumper. As far as the Central Tien Shan is concerned, then the last presenting it as a way of fighting in the wild straight from the NE to the PdZ, a mountain lansyug with numerical winds. On the first day and mayzhe, parallel to the first, on the other hand, the next lance, Mustag, stretched out. Near the Tengry-Taga region, the lancer on the back was split into two, between which lie the turns of the river. Narin. The valley of Sari-jazz rises between the Tien-Shan ridge and the Tengri-tag group. Semyonov, having depicted the ridges of the mayzhe as straight, their arcuate nature, the successors set up only later.
For ten years after Semyonov's expedition, the Tien Shan was richly modest. None of the mandrivniks could penetrate into the depths of the Central Tien Shan and Dzungaria. The cards at that time did not yet secure the materials selected by Semyonov. For example, the famous geographer M.I. Vєshokov after vіdvidin the valley of the nar. Chu ta oz. Issik-Kul, having seen the work about the Asian cordons of the Russian Empire. Ale yogo orographic statement about the Tien Shan - a little back to remind the brothers of Semyonov.
In the middle of the Tien Shan, this period is the most miraculous route of Shokan Valikhanov (1857-1858). Dressing up as a merchant, having crossed the Central Tien Shan with the caravan from Virny, drove the Issik-Kul, through the Zaukinsky (Dzhuuka) pass to the lake. Chatirkul and farther to Kashgar. Virushayuschie in the road to the prohannya of P.P. Semenov, Valikhanov began to take away the information about the share of the German clergyman Shlagintveit, who penetrated Kashgaria from the first day, for a bit, killed by one of the mistsevykh Khaniv. It's a pity that Valikhanov died shortly after the turn, without comprehending the collection of valuable geographical materials he had chosen. In 1859 p. Captain of the General Staff A.F. Golubev, appointing 16 astropoints near the lake. Issik-Kul in the valley of the river. Tekes. Behind the calculation of the lake, Issik-Kul rose at a height of 1616.5 m. accurate maps Tien Shan. Three years later (1862-1863), the captain of the General Staff A.P. Protsenko straightened up to Issik-Kul for the protection of the passes near the Terskey-Ala-Tau ridge. Vіn describing the passes of Dzhu-uka, Barskoon and Ulahol and the valleys of Kochkara, Dzhumgal, lake. Sonkul ta Narin; for the rise of tribute - the Top and Konur-Ulen passes.
Near the rock, Russia completed the conquest of a similar part of Central Asia; 1865 Bulo taken Tashkent. Viysk's power vyrishila pov'yazat line of sirdar'insk fortifications from Semirychensk. Everything became much easier on the way to the Tien Shan. More than that, the tsarist administration succumbed to the successors: for the consolidation of the conquest to Central Asia, villagers from Ukraine and the central regions of Russia hung. It was necessary to reveal a place, accessories for settlement.
Having succumbed to the situation, which changed, N. A. Severtsov, who already lived in Central Asia, built a number of more expensive Tien Shan. Persha is more expensive 1864 the bula is dedicated to Zailiisky Alatau, lake. Issik-Kul, the frontiers of the Kirghiz Alatau and Chatkal. In 1865-1866 rr. A number of routes are being built on the outskirts of the Tashkent metropolitan area, in the area of the Kara-tash mountain and the Ugamsky ridge. However, the largest flower and plaid bula of the yogo remains more expensive than the Tien Shan in 1867.
In the middle of spring, he entered from Virny, mayzhe by the same path, like Semyonov, having immediately rounded the lake. Issik-Kul and viyshov to the south pivdenny uzberezhzhya. Here, the Russian troops induced a few fortified posts (Karakol, Aksu bіla girla of the Turgen-Aksu river and others.), which could be a support base for the road to the Central Tien Shan.
Dali Sєvertsov passed to the back of the air of the pіvdennoe shore of the lake, having wound up near the valley of the river. Barskoon and through the one-man pass Viishov near the region of Sirte in the Central Tien Shan. Having penetrated in such a rank to Narin’s windings, the mandrill poached the Akshiryak mount on the meridional group. Going down the river Targai deshcho lower mistya її zlittya z nar. Kurmesti, then crossed into the river. Narin, rushing on a pіvdenniy zahіd i through the Ulan pass, having spent the same name near the valley. Severtsov also took a look at the valleys of the Atbash and Aksay rivers, so that he could reach the cordon of the Central Tien Shan. The bitter cold of winter, which was setting in the mountains, made Severtsov and his companions turn back. Turning the mandrіvnik to the back, the other way. Vіn obstehiv middle flow nar. Narin, rushing to the pіvnіch, proishov on the way out of the lake. Issik-Kul arrived on Zhovtny 29 to Tokmak.
The map of the Pivnіchny and Central Tien Shan, as having seen after its more expensive M. A. Severtsov, was compiled with the help of not less than the selected information, and also the data of these mandrivniks until 1869. inclusive. On the map already reportedly depicted a large number of ridges and mountain massifs. Here, Crimea is the most remote part of the Central Tien Shan, after Semyonov there is nothing else, we can know all the modern maps.
The selected materials allowed Severtsov to sprout deaks of slanderous visnovkas about the life of the mountain system and all of Asia in a slander. The most correct description of the Tien Shan is the famous Chinese mandrіvnik Xuan Jiang. Severtsov himself in the orographic view of the divisions of the Tien-Shan on two main parts: shid and zahіdnu, separated by the mountain group of Khan-Tengri. The hidden part is the same head ridge, the water-diver between the pools of the river Abo on the pivnochi and Tarima on the pivdni. At the western part, a system of flat-mountain-sirts and a few large-short ridges is tangled. Qiu mezhu Severtsov vzagalі vzagali domineering orography of Asia. The latest review of Humboldt's statement about the volcanic nature of the Tien Shan and the hanging theory
povіlnogo pіdnyattya yoga ridges, scho z geological science at that time was revolutionary.
In 1867, earlier, lower Severtsov was near his rest more expensive than the Tien Shan, there they straightened the reconnaissance party of Kraevsky, who went through the middle part of the valley of the bunk. Narin, and Poltoratsky, that I may turn over again (first after Valikhanov) the Tien Shan from pivnochi to pivden. At once from Poltoratsky, having robed the mountain passer Muzart, having raised the price of the botanist F. R. Osten-Saken, having chosen a rich collection of flora of the Pivdenny Tien Shan.
AT offensive rotation Buyanovsky barometrically determined the heights of the low points of the Tien Shan, and 1869 p. Velika is more expensive in the middle part of the countryside, Kaulbars is built, which has reached the possible paths that cross the Tien Shan. At the warehouse of the expedition, there were topographies Petrov and Reingarten. Mandrivniki destroyed the slope of the lost edge of the lake. Issik-Kul to the Narina valley. The stench reached right up to the turns of the river in the Aksheyryak ridge, then they destroyed the Kokshaal-tau ridge on the back of the lake. Chatirkul. Zvіdsi expedition turned pіvnіch i completed its route near the Talas valley. At the Aksheyryak Ridge, they described a number of ice floes: Muz-Tour, Petrova, Akshiyryak, Irtashsky and In.
Beginning in 1869 the center of gravity should be transferred to the western regions of Central Asia, most importantly the Pamirs and the territory of the lower Turkmen RSR. Travel to the Tien Shan until the end of the 19th century. to be of paramount importance episodic character in the surrounding areas of the tsієї gіrskoї kraїni.
In the period 1870 -1872 pp. Kaulbars, then A. Shepelev and L. Kostenko cover the area of the Muzart pass, on the way from the Khan-Tengri group. In 1884 p. Botany Professor V.V. Sonkul i, nareshti, through Dzhumgel i Susamir at the lower Narina - at the Namangan cape.
The biggest cicava bula was crushed in 1886. from the initiatives of P. P. Semenov and I. V. Mushketov Expedition of the Russian Geographical Partnership with the Chief Engineer I. V. Іgnatievim, how little progress is made to the Khan-Tengri region: to establish an orographic link between Tengri-Tag, the Terskey-Alatau ridge and the similar extension of the Tien-Shan-Muzart. In addition, the latter were responsible for the low geological features of the region, as well as for the modern glaciation of the part of the Tien Shan. 16 linden caravan expedition vyyshov from Przhevalsk and through the Turgen-Aksu valley rushiv to the river. Sari Jazz. Having penetrated to the river tributaries, the expedition climbed onto the ice rink, which P.P. Semenov figuratively called "Kryzhan Sea". Ignatiev urged to rename them in honor of Semyonov. The contours of Khan-Tengri can rise above the tops of the ice-floe. The participants of the expedition wrote, like Semyonov earlier, that the ice-maker was sinking from his peak. Rushing far into the afternoon, at the top of the bunk. Adirtor, the tide of Sarijaz, Ignatiev knows the great ice-maker, parallel to Semenov's ice-maker. The expedition named this ice maker named after Mushketov, the famous heir to Russian Turkestan.
Poor weather made Ignatiev and the companions rise at the top of Mushketov's ice rink, and the stench disturbed the distance. A few days later, having crossed the Sarijaz ridge, the mandrivniki drank into the river valley. Inilchek - offensive tide all the same and Sarijaz. The river Inilchek was littered with a mighty ice-maker, opened by Ignatiev. The entire surface of yoga is covered with chaos for a lot of kilometers of heaps of stone ulamkivs. The first ice-maker, it was given to Ignatiev, flowed from the silent gir themselves, that the ice-makers of Semyonov and Mushketov. Expeditions of Ignatiev never managed to penetrate to the top of Khan-Tengri. The riddle of the Gir knot was left unsolved.
Ignatiev's failure is natural. For a successful push uphill by the majestic ice-makers, it is not enough to be an energetic successor. It is necessary to be good with the tricks of changing over with ice, with which the mountain climbers ring out; It is also necessary for the mother to have a special order. In the light of Ignatieva, it is clear that it was difficult for new and yogo companions to navigate a small excursion to Semenov’s ice rink: having repented, we were guilty of descending from the steep slope of the slope, which presented new difficulties: with a steep slope, degrees up to 30, it was even more important to get into the poles, the bays of such a forge on hard ice, so it was just like a pidkov with spikes on our boots; it was possible shably, Protruded forward safely, although it could not do without a fall, that migration from steep slopes.
From the Saridjaz valley, through the previously unknown Narinkol pass, the mandrіvniki drank to the river valley. Tekes. On the 16th sickle stench arrived to the village of Mislivsky, the stars made an excursion to the lake. Bearded man. Stars first photographed Khan-Tengri peak. On the 22nd of September, Ignatiev marched to Muzart, and the topographers of the expedition, which were in the Bayankol valley, indicated the height of the peak - it was equal to 24,000 f. (7320 m).
The botanist A. N. Krasnov, a participant in this expedition, has made significant progress. At the river valley. Kuylyu Vіdkriv vіdkriv nevіdomy leodovik (sіm іnshikh liоdovikіv vіn showed at the mountain group of Mirtash), Krasnov completed his route, passing through Bedel to Kashgari.
As a result of Semyonov's work and Ignatieva, the idea was formed that Khan-Tengri was a vuzol, for which the Tien Shan ridges diverge on all sides. Significantly, the majority of distant expeditions to the Central Tien Shan jumped to penetrate to its own peak.
In 1889 p. The Tien Shan was overtaken by Pevtsov's expedition through the Barskoon and Bedel passes. Ten rokіv according to that, the French doslіdnik Saint Iv passed through the hirsk krajina to the west, the valley of the river. Narin, and through the Yaas pass Ferghani reached. At the same time, the caravan of the Ugrian expedition Almas and Professor Stummer-Trauenfels went to the Tengri-tag massif. The expedition spent two months in the Sarijazu valley and its surroundings, collecting and collecting ethnographic and zoological collections. Trying to get into the mountains with Almasi's ice makers was not timid.
Vlitka 1900 r. climbers arrived at the Sarijazu valley. Prince Borghese and Dr. Broquerel with the help of the Swiss explorer Zurbriggen won the fame of conquerors of Khan Tengri. The stench led their caravan by force through the Tyuz pass. The expedition reached the valley of Inilchek, and as soon as they approached the ice-maker and the path, important pavements appeared to him, that the mandrills entered. The stench has gone overboard, so they can’t get through with a stone of ice; there was no sufficient number of noses. Todi Borghese vyrivishiv shukati pіdstupіv pіdstupіv pіvdnya, іz Xinjiang. Ale and there the climbers were not destined to have a meal. The back of the caravan was churned up by the waters of the Kuyukap river. An unexpected call about the war that began in China made the travelers turn back.
Borghese, Broquerel and Zurbriggen created a sprat of similarity. As the peak of Khan-Tengry rises from other peaks, the stench has had mercy more than once, taking for a new one, then another peak. Nareshti had mercy on them. The stench climbed on the saddle between the peaks of Kaindi-tau and Kartish near the Kaindi ridge, which watered the Kaindi ice rink from the Inilchek ice rink. From the saddles - the stench called it the Akmoynak pass (4560 m) - the alpinists swayed, that the ice maker Inilchek had two hilts, and vyrishili, that the path along the new one was the only step to Khan-Tengri. Borghese and yoga companions re-examined only the sports numbers and the annual visnovkiv about the orography of the area did not bother.
In 1902 p. to the heart of the Heavenly Mountains, two expeditions were destroyed at the same time. One of them swayed over the Tomsk metropolitan area, stunning Professor of Botany VV Sapozhnikov; another expedition of the famous German geographer and climber Professor Merzbacher.
The Central Tien Shan made his pershu dear Sapozhnikov started from Virny on May 23rd. Doslednik having crossed Terskey-Alatau. Seeing a sprinkling of valleys on the top slopes of the ridge, I turned again to Issik-Kul in Przhevalsk, and the stars along the valley of the river. Turgen-Aksu destroying the coal of the Central Tien Shan. Passing the Karagir pass, part of the river valley. Vіdtup i pass Terpu, shevtsіv dosyag bunk. Kuyli. Climbing uphill through the valley to the Kuylyu pass, and having rounded the Arpatektor plateau and the valley of the river. Kurusai, right surf Kuyli. Here there was a sprat of ice-dwellers, and the upper Kuil and the same-named ridge, which rose above the valley from the peak of the day, a number of snowy peaks with a height of over 5000 m, zokrema. The best peak of the narrow end of the ridge is Peak Eduard (about 6000 m) (The name was given to Almasi, which reached the peak from the Sari-Jazz valley). Through the pass Kuilyu Shevtsiv descended into the valley of the river. Ііrtash i proyshov usu її upper part to the girll of the bunk. Ortotash. Here the elders turned the pivnich and crossed the Terekti ridge with a single pass, from which the pivdenny slopes of the Kuilyu ridge can be looked at in the distance. In this manner, the great mountain region was surrounded by the valleys of the rivers Kuilu and Irtash, on the westward overlooking the Sarijazu valley. Analyzing directly the ridges in the central part of the mountainous land, Sapozhnikov also proved that "all five folds on the convergence converge in the Khan-Tengry group ...". Tsey visnovok zbіgavsya with the thought of Semenov and Ignatieva. Shevtsiv does not intermedium; gave a wine saying: "... at the entrance, the stench is picked up from two mountain vuzli, moreover, the Zahidniy Akshiyryak suffocates the smaller one at the upper rivers of the Kuilyu and Terekti ...". Vіn "accepts in itself, rahuyuchi z pivnochі on pіvday... Terskey-tau, ridges Ishigart and Kokshaal; vuzol Terekti zadnuє... ridge Kuilu and Terekti". Obidva vuzli zadnuyutsya one of the folds of the Terskey-Alatau ridge. The researcher also analyzes the orography of the region, which comes from the entrance to the Akshiryak group.
At the rest of the robotic stage, the expedition saw the Sarijaz valley, passing through the Kuilyu valley to the top, the stars of the mandriving through the Ashutera pass (near Sapozhnikova - Narin-kol) penetrated into the Bayankol valley. Shevtsiv's way was lifted by Semyonov's ice maker to a height of 3783 m, when the ice changed with a strong snowy slope. Khan-Tengri pobachit zvіdsi not far away, vіv buv zakryti gloomy. In order to increase the height of the heights of the peaks, Sapozhnikov climbed up the right slopes of the Ashutor valley. A panorama of mighty snowy peaks appeared in front of the last one: "Such a great amount of snow I have never seen before, never again"3. The height of Khan-Tengri, appointed by Sapozhnikov, reached 6950 m.
At the beginning of the expedition, Shoemakers and his companions, especially M. Friedrichsen, carried out a survey of men, which became the basis for compiling the map of the Central Tien Shan. Naturally, the image of the ridges near the region, which imperceptibly adjoins to the top of Khan-Tengri, is not clear on it, although the map has introduced a lot of new things.
Penetrate to the top of Khan-Tengri Shevtsiv without any effort. Qiu metu having put his own Merzbacher - one of the greatest climbers of his time. Yogo companions are also mali non-abyak alpine training.
Having tried to get to Khan-Tengri from the Bayankol gorge, Merzbacher tried to get to the bottom of the ridge, but without any difficulty he crossed over, but the valley did not bring him to the point: the other great peak began to chime the gorge, rising uphill with a two-kilometer wall. Merzbacher called її "Marmur wall", - at the sharp skhila of the pik, the layers of the miraculous marmur were visible.
The first failure did not disappoint the successors. In order to clarify the camp of Khan-Tengri, the mandrills made a low descent on the top of the zavvishka up to 5500 m. Ale didn’t give anything: the peaks, as if appeared, were not far away, the approach to Khan-Tengri was not far off. Needed a bunch of other points for a look around. That same expedition went to the Sarijazu valley. Climbing up here mayzha on the most important peaks, you can swing the Khan-Tengri pyramid and the gorge, which you can see from the peak on the slope. Is it possible for some of them to get to the bottom of the peak? Chogo Merzbacher not knowing.
Merzbacher's supporters knew that Semyonov's ice maker was reaching the peak of Khan-Tengri. Merzbacher read about it. In order to reverse this zdogad, climbing to the top, which climbed over the ice-dwelling shore, If the descendants reached the highest point of the mountain, and rose in the panorama, which was seen in front of them, their rose rose again: the mountain, for example, the stack all the same with the Marmur wall.
Let's step on the pivden buv liodovik Mushketov. Ale and yogo's tops did not have a secret peak. The fight against the harsh nature of the high Tien Shan is not easy on the right. At one hour of the descent, which ended tragically, the climbers - members of the expedition had a chance to try on their own access to the power of dry powder-like snow, so characteristic of the Tien Shan. The stench was already not far from the top, if there was dry snow under their vag, which lay Germanically on the slope, swaying back down. Vinicla avalanche. An exhausting sweat from the snow, having choked up some skhodniks, and rushed down at an increasing pace. People vryatuvalis vipadkovo: having flown close to two hundred meters with an avalanche, the stench drank into a crack in the schili. Having climbed out of the snow, the climbers did not dare to continue the climb. Yakbi stinks were easygoing and still got to the top, then the ice-dwelling Pivnichniy Inilchek and Khan-Tengry peak in the yogo tops would roll. Ale...the stench stepped in.
After the ice-maker Mushketov's swimming pool was covered, Mertsbacher passed by the Inilchek valley, but did not rise to the upper pits. The expedition straightened through the Muzartsky pass to China. Poshuki elusive pіku filled up to offensive rock.
Expedition great kіlkistyu the bearer was lifted by the ice-maker Inilchek. The caravan of the proishovs is about 18 km, making their way through the kupi kam'yanikh ulamkіv, which the krieg was attached to. The mandrіvniki rose up: the valley split in front. From the side valley, which is going to the pivnіchniy skhіd, there is one more mighty crying potik. Above it, going into the sky with lower peaks, rising a lance of high girs.
It appeared that Almas mav raciu: Inilchek is made up of two heels, which are separated by a high ridge.
What gorge collapsed far away? Cautiously they said that the shukati of Khan-Tengri was required at the tops of the pivnichnaya grove. Mandrіvniki went to the left, to the pіvdenniy edge of the ice-maker. In order to reach the place where the beer grove falls, I had a chance to turn over the entire ice rink, which expands with a wide gorge more lower for 3 km.
It was given, the meta is close. Ale... the mouth of Pivnichny Inilchek was blocked for its entire width by the great ice lake. Beautiful icebergs floated on the green water; the steep rocky shores were shaved down to the lake... The way was superbly closed: neither crossed, nor bypassed the lake it was impossible. Already knew the solution hung. Could it be possible to climb further with a pivdennoy gіlkoy, or else in that path to the top?
Additional testing method: one more convergence, and from one of the peaks on the pivden birch of the Merzbacher ice rink, we could look into the contours of the already known summit pyramid of Khan Tengri. It was necessary to collapse forward and collapse quickly: food supplies ran out, and it was far from the base camp.
Even on the second tens of kilometers uphill, the tormented, hungry noses of the expedition climbed like ice. They didn’t give a stink. Forward, they demolished only Merzbacher from two Tyroleans (alpine guides, from the warehouse of the expedition). Unexpectedly, the stench hung on the firn fields, which lay already in a mournful veil. It was much easier to walk on the thin snow.
Five years of uninterrupted walking in the snow. The winds that descend from the ridge line the visibility. What is after them? Is it possible to rediscover the traveller's checks of roses and the riddle of the peak become unbroken?
Maizhe raptovo, behind the ledge of the skel, a peak appeared shining with snow. Another sprig of swedish krokіv, and nothing is chained in front of the mandrіvniki, the Marmur pyramid of "Volodar dukhіv" rises. Vaughn is now visible all, from the vіdnіzhzhya to the top.
It immediately became obvious that Khan-Tengri not only did not rise to the largest ridges of the Tien Shan, but that it should not be possible for one of them to grow along the independent short ridge, which spread the insults of the Inilchek ice rinks. The height of the Merzbacher peak was 7200 m.
Seeking to grow up in the roztashuvann ridges of the Tien Shan, vyrishiv, that the knot was tied with him at the Bayankol gorge of the Marmur wall. Even though Merzbacher had mercy, but the thought of rich fates was shared by all geographers. I know Merzbacher saw the Tien Shan, born in 1907, but Khan-Tengry is no more.
April 1903 Expeditions to the Central Tien-Shan to collect rіdkіsnі, prinaymnі nemє zhodnoї, equal to the values of Merzbacher and Sapozhnikov. In 1906 Ugrian geologist G. Prince, virushivshi, from Andijan, proishov uzdovzh Central Tien Shan: through the valleys of Narin, Sarijaz, Bayankol and Tekes. On the way to the vineyard, seeing the lake. Issik-Kul. Turning the stars to the sun, turning over the valleys of the upper stream of the Narin and Viishovs to the Kokshaal-tau ridge. Three years later, the Prince, having arrived again at the Tien Shan, straightened him once again to the pinnacles of the western part of Kokshaal-tau. Here the mandrivnik saw the little-survived Aksai plateau, having turned the ridge and viyshov on a clear day near Kashgar. Prince obstezhiv nevyvchenі valley rіchok Uryuk-Sai and Kontavtau і dіyshov to nar. Kokshaal. In addition, in 1909, Kokshaal-tau was built in 1909, seeing also Greber, and the engineer K. I. Argentov zdіysniv a number of routes in the area of the lake. Chatirkul and in the valleys of Atbash and Aksai, tobto on the pіvnіchnyh skhilah of the same ridge. In 1910 start pratsyuvati expeditions of the Resettlement Administration, but the stench will first go straight to the western part of the mountainous region, and only in 1912. one of them, on the territory of V. V. Sapozhnikov, penetrates the Central Tien Shan. For the first time I visited the area of the Ketmensky ridge (on the pissing route from Alma-Ata). Vіn vіdvіdav vіdvіdav vіdvіd vіdvіd vіdvіvі rіchok Tekesa i Bayankola. Having finished the work in this region, the expedition rushed into the valley of the river. Sarijaz. Not zooming in on Mushketov’s ice rink (winning with gloom), Sapozhnikov rushing farther on pivden, passing through the Sarizhsky ridge (Tuz pass) near the Inylchek valley, then through the At-dzhaylyau pass to the valley of the river. Kaindi. Here the members of the expedition climbed onto the ice rink and walked over it for a couple of years, and there was still residual surface moraine, until " pure ice", so they didn’t get far. From the Kayndi valley, the mandrills destroyed the distance for a day, through the Uchchat and Kara-archa passes and reached the Karaarcha river. The attempt to penetrate far along the gorge of the Chichar river near the middle part of the ridges of the Khan-Tengri group it is as far as Merzbacher and Borghese. along the route near the Central Tien Shan ended: through the Terpu pass, the Ottuk valley and the Karagir pass, mandrivniki arrived in the Turgen-Aks valley and Przhevalsk.
In addition, in 1912 the Turkestan Viysk district carried out a topographic survey of a large part of the territory of the Tien Shan. Topographies have gone up to the mov of the ice-dwellers of the Khan-Tengri group, but their zagin was even innumerable and filthy equipped. "For the presence of 5 people workers and 2 cossacks, it was impossible to work with a sample, if you wanted to quickly secure the space, and zjomka, to build only a route, can be organized in different organizations of a special expedition, furnished with a proper rank." There were no climbers among topographers.
Behind the tribute of the winter of 1912, the height of Khan-Tengri appeared as equal to 22940 f. (6992 m). For a long time, the figure was on the maps. Vtіm, topographers had mercy on less than a sprat of meters.
Rocky passed. Gori stood in Suvoriy Movchantsi. Lavini with gurkot threw themselves on steep slopes. Burkhlivy rivers carried their pinist waters. But no one tried again to penetrate to the hidden heights of Tengri-tag. The times of Tsarist Russia did not manage to organize the organization of the right to carry out the investigation of the Central District.
In 1914 near the lake area Issik-Kul was founded by geologist M.G. Vіn zbrav significant material about the geology and icing of the pіnіnіnі part of Tengri-tag.
At that hour, when the Central Tien Shan began to be reached by the Radyansky mandrіvniki and vcheni, the orography of the dosі was filled with a lot of obscure food. Most of the gorges and ice groves near the present, the lower part of the mountainous region near the Khan-Tengry group have not yet been passed by mandrivers. About the Kulyut and Akshiryak groups, there were no more wild statements. There are more mountain peaks in these regions, and in the central part of the Kokshaal-tau ridge, the foot of the old man has not set foot yet. No one tried to pass the canyons, propylene in Kokshaal-tau rivers Sarijaz and Uzengigush. Zvichayno, just like that, for deciphering the "bіloї plyami" of the Pamirs, the fate of climbers was needed here. To this very fact, obviously, we were reminded of us in front of the Khan-Tengri region. At the same time, the universal destruction of the nature of the Central Tien Shan was going on. The Tyanshan Geographical Observatory played a great role in this right, prompted by the Academy of Sciences in the valley. Kumter, 6 km from Petrov's ice rink.
The first groups of Radyansky mandrivniks straightened up to the Inylchek ice rink in 1929. On the back of the head, there were less than rozvіdki climbers and tourists, ale z 1931r. at the warehouse of the Ukrainian Expedition, there is already a low level of science in various specialties. Step by step, the Budova Ridge was seen in the area, especially those details of yogo, including the iron and the original icing.
In 1929 M. M. Palgov zdijsniv dzhe tsikavu is more expensive to pivnіchnyh shills of the central part of the ridge Kokshaal-tau. Here, at the tops of the rivers Aksu and Uzengi-gush vins, a number of great ice-makers, not described by anyone, appeared; to a new one in this region there is no topography, yakі robili in 1912. zyomka, signified a significant icing.
In 1932-1933 rock. At the link with the 2nd International Polar Rock (IPY), the number of expeditions near the Central Tien Shan increased. Through two rocks in the region between the ridges of Terskey-Alatau and Barkold, expeditions were carried out on the island of S. V. Kalesnik. Based near the observatory area, the stench reached the icy area, reportedly described the low ice rink of the Akshiryak ridge, showed the Budov relief and the geology of the area. The stench wafted up to Semyonov's ice maker in the Sarijaz valley. In 1933 it was planned to surround the pіvnіchnі shili of Kokshaal-tau, but because of the ear of the cob the expedition roamed the boulder to settle in a small tract of the Kokshaal-tau ridge between the Pikertik and Bedel passes. In 1934 The natural environment of the Central Tien Shan near the Arabels Plateau area was covered by a small group of the Leningrad University on the basis of Professor D. M. Kashkarov.
A report on the ice-flooding of the Barkolda ridge, and of the pivnichnyh slopes of the Kokshaal-tau ridge, were part of a group of tourists from the Moscow Budinka who were enrolled with professor A, A. Letavet. Having penetrated in 1933, through the Kubergenti pass in the Kagalachai tract, the group saw the ice-dwelling place of Komarov and the suicidal ice-dwelling place of Palgova, which had not yet been reached, and then rushed to the slope, downstream of the river. Uzengigush. Burning on pivden, in the gorge of the bunk. Dzhurek, the tourists have rounded up another new ice-maker. They named yoga after S. G. Grigor'ev. The advancing fate of A. A. Litavet again arrived at the center of the month and rushed away to the retreat. Vіn pragnuv obstezhit proriv Kokshaal-tau river Uzengi-gush. Seeing the gorge of the bunk. Chonturas, tourists saw a great ice rink there, sharpening a number of garni peaks. L'odovik buv names im'yam Korzhenevsky. A group of nevdovzі turned back, so without zumіvshi made their way to the canyon of the Nar. Uzengigush, we visited these places of mountaineering again in 1938. - the center of the sports group of the association "Kryla Rad" on the territory of B. Simaginim. Climbing on Grigor'ev's ice rink, the climbers straightened up to the top of the peak, which they called "Kryla Rad". Resentment made him reach the highest point of grief.
Doslіdzhennya in the area of the peak of Khan-Tengri trivali tsі roki. Having completed the ice-flooding in Pivnichniy Inylchek, the climbers straightened into the valley of the river. Kuyli. Here were the root faces of the Radyansk Constitution and Karpinsky. The first peak is the largest peak in the ridge, maybe the same as it used to be called Eduard's peak. Alpinisti were installed, that the altitude was assigned incorrectly, it was only 5250 m, and not 6000 m, as they had said earlier.
Near the hour of descending to the peak of Karpinsky A.A. "Vona was seen far away on the slope, trochs on the day in the peak of Khan-Tengri and, it was given, it did not go to you at the height." Nastupny, 1938, an expedition was organized for descending to the top, called the peak of the XX-Rich of the Komsomol. In 1943 p. for the exact topographical survey, it was established that there is a friend in the Tien Shan beyond the height of the region. Todi wana was renamed to Pemogi Peak (7439 m).
Alpіnіsti y zgodly used to be near the valley of Kuilu. Have 1951 r. її saw the group Є. A. Kazakovo and V. V. Nemitsky, and two years later the mountain climbers repeated the convergence to the peak of Radyanskaya Konstituciya in Uzbekistan.
The ice-floes of the pine forest part of Tengry-tag, which flow down to the Bayankol valley, were surrounded by the participants of the 1935 expedition before Reznichenko. The same group of V. V. Nemitsky crossed the pass through the Terskey-Alatau ridge, passing through the Semyonov ice rink and into the Sarij valley. Zyomka district in 1943 that doslidnitska robot sports expedition of A. A. Letavet at 19.46 p. played a great role in culminating in one of the remaining obscure sources of the orography of the Central Tien Shan. It was established that the peak of the Marmur wall is not a knot, from which the Tien Shan ranges diverge radially. And in 1953 and 1954 rock. Expedition of Kazakh climbers, that buv and group of U. F. Gusev accurately established the mystic of the ridges of Terskey-Alatau and Sarijaz.
From the middle of the 1930s, the remains of the Central Tien-Shan more and more go to the more expensive ones from the orders of the global geographical description and the z'yasuvannya orography of the region to the planned and perished vivechennya її budovi that nature. As before, the Tien Shan Station of the Academy of Sciences plays the right role.
RELIEF
Tien Shan is one of the largest and most important mountain systems in Asia and the whole world. Most of the ridges of the Tien Shan have a typical glacier-ice "alpine" relief, a series of sharp ridges and guest peaks in the central and inner Tien Shan, sirty is rotting - the surface of the glacier, flat, empty, wide slopes, wide slopes , roztashovani in the middle and lower belts gіr. Sirti and the bottoms of the high-mountain valleys near the Inner and Central Tien Shan are covered with grassy vegetation, and with pastures. On the slopes of the ridges, erosive processes are intensively developed, ospis, rock falls, sue of the soil are established, in the gorges - mudflows.
CLIMATE
The view of the oceans, significant descent and folding of strongly intersecting relief zoomed in on the continentality of the climate of the region. Characteristic є znachnі kolivanie temperatures yak for the seasons of rock, so і protyazh doby, reduced or pomіrna kіlkіkі podіvі vіdnosna drіії poіtrya.
The high mountain ranges make it easier to access the water-bearing flood currents, and in the greater part of the Central Tien Shan in the middle of the river, the water falls from 200 to 300 mm. Falling off. However, in the middle and especially in the high-mountain regions, there is more fallout. So, at an altitude of 3000m, about 420 mm falls, at 3500m - up to 570 mm, at 4000m - over 750 mm. The main mass of fall (about 85%) in the region falls on the heat of the rock - on the grass-lime, at least - on the breast-puff.
According to the historical data of the Narin weather station, roztashovanoy in the valley at an altitude of 2049 m, the river temperature is 2.5 °, the temperature is 17.4 °, the absolute minimum is -32 °. The sum of active temperatures becomes 2082 °, the duration of a frost-free period is 144 days, the period with a temperature of more than 10 ° is 142 days. Vіdnosna vologіst vіtrya in the heat of the time of rock kolivaєєtsya vіd 40 to 55%, and vzimku syagaє 80%.
The snow cover falls in the middle of leaf fall, the middle height is yogo to the end of the fierce - birch on the cob reaches 25 cm. The rest of the spring frosts are like spring, and the first autumn frosts are like spring. Winds and cold winds prevail, the most wind speed (up to 20-25 m / s) is observed on the other half of the day. As a rule, the weather is windless and calm.
The mountains have a harsh climate. Water content is moving up, the frost-free period is changing. At altitudes of 3400-4000 m, frosts can be repeated during the warm season, and fall falls, as a rule, only at the sight of the snow. In the middle tier, the temperature again in the linden becomes 10-15°. Winter in the mountains is dry and cold. The average temperature in the middle of the country is -15-20 ° below zero, the absolute minimum reaches here -45 °. On the steppe slopes of the pivdenny exposition, there is practically no snow cover in winter. According to the style of the pivnіchnyh expozitsiy wines, it is deep and trimmed with a long winter. It is not uncommon for avalanches to descend in the spring, for the wake of the awakening of nature.
ROSLINNY SVIT
The growing cover of the mountain-steppe landscapes, widened at altitudes from 2200 to 3000 m, is represented mainly by turf such kovil mountain steppes. There are often huddled denuds and stony ospis. The Hirska steppes, occupyingly shed, which warm up the most, may be overwhelmed all winter without a permanent snow cover, which attracts grass-eating creatures here.
The wind for the mountain steppes is typical for the region of temperature and soil. At this hour, the growth of Pauline, thyme, ephedra is thin. For example, a lime tree, if the growth of the mountain steppes begins to dry out, sheds a monotonous yellowish-gray shade, greenery is less than chagars and mellows.
Hirsko-meadow complexes - to finish often a sight on the territory of the Central Tien Shan, the stench is even more varied. The warehouse of middle-aged onions on black earth soils is rich, on an area of 1 m2 there are up to 30 types of herbs.
Cherepov I A
Mysteries of the Tien Shan
Title: Buy the book "Mysteries of the Tien Shan": feed_id: 5296 pattern_id: 2266 book_
Mysteries of the Tien Shan
(From the history of that root of the Peak of Peremoga.
Expeditions A. Letaveta 1937-1938 pp.)
Impenetrable mountain steeps, eternal snows, with mighty streaks, high peaks, which are built with their guest peaks into the blue of the sky, ice-drifts and snowstorms richly guarded the geographic mysteries of the Tien Shan for centuries.
The honor of cultivating the tsієї gіrskoї krajina belongs to our votchiznânіy science.
The first survivor of the Tien Shan was the famous Russian geographer P.P. Posted by P.P. N.A.Severtsov, I.V.Mushketov, I.V.Ignatiev and other Russian universities contributed to the Semyonov-Tian-Shansky district of the region, and by their own efforts made an unestimated contribution to the Tien Shan branch. Ale, don’t make money for the organization of great expeditions and streak support from the side of the tsar’s order; the same doslidniki it was impossible to penetrate the important accessible areas of the mountainous region.
The great Zhovtnev socialist revolution radically changed the life of the peoples of the great Tsarist Russia. At the Radyansk Union, the people's statehood, science, and culture reached their rozkvit. From the first days of the radian power to our land, universal sovereign assistance was given, hundreds of great scientific establishments were created, great complex expeditions were organized for the development of rich regions in our great Batkivshchyna.
The Radian people came to the peaks of the Tien Shan. They didn’t sound like turbulent rivers, or high mountain ridges - the stench penetrated into the kingdom of eternal winter and staring from the mountain velvet covers.
In 1943, the peak of the Peremogi peak of the head peak of the Tien Shan, the crown of 7439 m, became one of the largest geographical peaks of the last twenty years.
In this book, the author, a participant in the Tien Shan expeditions of Professor A. A. Letavet, told about those, like a group of Radian scientists and mountaineers, having penetrated into the unexplored high region of the Radyansk Tien Shan, solved geographic riddles and helped them to overcome them .
The book is composed of two parts Part I. Peak of the Stalinist Constitution and Part II. Peak of Peremogi. We are introducing the Introduction, which briefly describes the history of the development of the Tien Shan, which guesses the reading orography of the most important region of ours, Batkivshchyna.
The author honors the great tribute to his companions and comrades on high expeditions near the Tien Shan, Professor A. A. Letavet, V. F. Mukhin, Є. I. Ivanov, A.V. Bagrov and E. M. Kolokolnikov, for help with the work on the book.
I. Cherepov.
INSTUP
The majestic mountainous land of Tien Shan lies at the very heart of Asia. Over two and a half thousand kilometers, її girska lansyugs stretched out from the entrance to the exit.
The winds of the most important ranges of the Tien Shan - Talas, Chatkal, Fergana and Kuramin descend to the capital of the Uzbek RSR, the city of Tashkent. Ranges Ferghana, Chatkalsky and Kuraminsky enclose the Ferghana Valley from the pivnochi. Hidden winds of the Tien Shan ridges reach the outskirts of the desert Gobi.
A characteristic feature of the Tien Shan is its winding in the latitudinal direction, both in the south of the mountainous region, and in the greater part of the mountainous lances and ridges. At the meridional straight line from midnight to midday, the inter-regions stretch for only 300-400 km, and all of it is located between 40-44 degrees. pivnіchnoi latitude.
From the day of the Tien-Shan water-cremations in the mountainous regions of Kun-Lun and Altin-Taga, which adjoins Tibet, the wide desert Takla-Makan. Mountains Pamir-Alay Western Tien-Shan po'yazaniy іz Pamir; cordon between them to serve as the native Ferghana Valley.
The high everlasting ridges of the Radyansk Tien Shan live a lot of great rivers of Central Asia - Abo, Chu, Narin (upper Sir-dar'ї), Ak-sai, Uzengegush, Sarijas, Tekes. The main feature of all the drains of the Tien Shan are those that a drop of their waters does not reach the ocean, lively internal pools of rivers and lakes of Central Asia.
The whole region of the Tien Shan has been divided into chotiri parts. Up to the Western Tien Shan one can see mountain lances and ridges, roztashovanny on the westward of the lake Issik-Kul. To the Central Tien Shan one can see the navigable ridges of the mountainous region, roztashovani on the first day of the lake Issik-Kul, and also on the slopes of the entire ridge to the Meridional inclusive. Ridges Kungey, Zaіlіyskiy, roztashovani on pіvnіch vіd lake Issik-kul, vsochiyut near Pіvnіchny Tien-shan. On the pivnіchny zahіd vіd Zaіlіyskogo Ala-tau rise. Chu-Iliysky burn. Western, Central and Pivnichny Tien Shan are located on the territory of the Radyansk Union.
Up to the Hidden Tien Shan, all the lancets are transported, roztashovan on the skhіd in the Meridional Ridge and are transferred more importantly on the territory of the Western provinces of the People's Republic of China.
The western Tien Shan is a widely studded system of mountainous lancets and ridges, stashed with the head rank of the Kyrgyz and partly Kazakh and Uzbek union republics. Here you can see the Kirghiz, Talas, Chatkal, Ferghana, Kuramin and a number of other ridges and their winds, roaming on a wide area from the entrance to the exit from Tashkent to the lake Issik-Kul and Ferghana from the spring to the afternoon, from the valley of the river Abo
Near the Western Tien Shan, near the wide valley of the river Chu, the capital of the Kirghiz RSR, the town of Frunze, was ripped. The ridges of the Western Tien Shan are equally accessible and dosledzhenі. In the alpinist view, the Kyrgyz Ala-Tau has the largest climbs, on the eternal peaks there is a rich convergence. On the peaks of the Chatkal ridge, Radyansk alpinists also repeatedly visited;
On the pіvnіch vіd Іssik-kul lake, on the territory of the Kazakh RSR, roztashovanі two gіrskі lantsyugi Pіvnіchnogo Tien-shan Zailiyskiy Ala-tau and Kungei. On the її pіvnіchnykh skhila, zvernenih to the valley of the river Abo, the capital of Kazakhstan - the place of Alma-Ata spread. The part of the Zailiisky Alatau lay down to the capital the most developed and mastered by climbers.
In this region, there is a small number of alpinist camps, which are similar to the numerical peaks, and here the main rank is the training of the Middle Asian alpinists.
The Central Tien-Shan includes the greatest mountain ranges and ridges. There is an area of the most intense icing here.
On the first day of the lake Issik-Kul, on the territory of the Kyrgyz RSR, two great mountain lances of the Tien Shan - Terskey Ala-tau and Kok-shaal-tau
Between them, on the great nagіr'ї, a small sprat of Naryn-tau, At-bashi, Ak-sheyryak, Chakir-korum, Borkoldoy and others were milled behind the ridge.
Kokshaal-tau - the most important and, probably, the least climbed mountain range of the Tien Shan with peaks of about 6000 m (Kzil-asker 5899 m, Dankov peak 5978 m, Alpinist peak 5782 m and іn.).
Due to the height, the shape of the peaks and the important accessibility, the whole area is of great scientific and sports interest, to which it attaches the respect of the veterans and climbers to itself.
On the slope of the lake Issik-Kul, the largest temple is planted and an important part of the entire Tien Shan - the massif of Khan Tengri is accessible. Here, the largest (60 km) ice rink of the Tien Shan, Pivdenny Inilchek, is thawed. In this region, there are peaks higher than 6000 m, the highest of them is Khan-Tengri - 6995 m, the peak of Peremogi - 7439 m, the other in height is the peak of Radyansky Soyuz. The most famous on the earth's kuli peaks are seven-thousanders covered with ice and snow; stinks, of course, generate and naysuvorishі mind that particular inaccessibility. To make up for this, people walked up and down the mountain, in the distance they swept a bunch of eternal giants, but they could not get close to them. To that, human fantasy populated them with secret spirits and gave them special names. So, the whole mountain region is called Tien Shan, which in the translation from the Chinese means "Heavenly Mountains", the array of Khan-Tengry may be called Tengry-Tag in the translation from the Uighur - "burn spirits", and the top of the massif called Khan-tengri - Russian "Volodar duhiv".
The Khan-Tengry massif, which is made up of low ridges and peaks, occupies a hidden part of the Central Tien-Shan and, until the last hour, attaches to itself the respect of the great mountaineers, making them richly invisible. The tops of this ridge are supra-lingually numerical, similar, collapsing in the same massif, you can pereahuvati on the fingers.
The orographic Budova massif of Khan-Tengri is already its own. At the southern part of the millings there is the Meridional ridge, which crosses the central part of the Central Tien Shan. In the direction of the ridge near the latitudinal straight line, you can see the main ridges of Tien Shan on the west - the ridge of Stalin, Sarijas, Boz-kir (Skhidniy Kok-shaal-tau); on the way - Pivnichny and Khalik-tau.
From the Sari-Dzhas Ridge, the Terskey Alatau Ridge, and the Kuilyu-Tau Ridge, serve as the continuation of the Sari-Dzhas Ridge. The view of the Boz-kir ridge looks to the west of the Inilchek-tau ridge, and the ridge of Kaindi-katta enters from its side.
Nayvischi peaks of the massif stand near the Meridional ridge and on the new one itself. Peak Peremogi high near the Boz-kir ridge, and on the peak, near the Stalin ridge, there is Khan-tengri peak.
L’odovik Pivdenniy Inilchek flows on the westward of the Meridional Ridge and receives ice-tributaries from the slopes of the ridges of Stalin, Sari-dzhas, Boz-kir and Inilchek-tau.
There are a lot of forests in the Tien Shan. The highlands of the valley, the plateau that was covered with succulent grasses. On the mountain pastures, rich successions of kolgospіv and radgospіv graze. A large number of wild creatures - goat goats (tau-teke) and rams (archarivs) - create friendly minds for the development of a myslivsky trade. At the tops of the Tien Shan, a rich brown copalin was discovered, which promises broad prospects for the development of garnish ore crafts.
The proximity of the snowy ridges of the Tien Shan to the capitals of the Kazakh and Kyrgyz union republics represents a wide field of activity for the development of mountaineering in them, one of the favorite sports of the brave people of the city - the school of masculinity. The authorities of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan attach due respect to the development of mountaineering in the republics of the mountainous sport of mountaineering near the area of the Zailiysky Ala-tau ridge, near the Alma-Ata city, sit another place after the Caucasus, and the mountaineers of Kyrgyzstan became famous for the mass alpine holidays.
Near the Khan Tengri massif, on an area of about 10,000 square meters. km, the largest peaks of the largest ice rinks in the Tien Shan are in the middle. Deep valleys underlay ridges. These hard icings are often called hot firn pools.
The importance of accessibility to the Khan-Tengri region for a long time hindered its progress. People did not go into the depths of that kingdom of eternal winter, but they told fairy tales and legends about the taemnicha land of Tengri-tag.
Lish at 1856-1857 pp. the great Russian geographer P. Semenov far away lifted the veil of the mystery of the Tien Shan, which covered up the whole part. For the first time, I reached the distance to dance Tengry-tag and step on the yogo ice rink. Compiled by him, the miracle descriptions are more expensive than the Tien Shan to serve as a clear robotic scientific thought and oppose the clarity and breadth of guards and visnovkiv.
Unfortunately, P. P. Semenov did not go into the depths of the Khan-Tengri massif, and the entire region, until the rest of the hour, saved himself from his faceless riddles. Having seen the Tien Shan P. P. Semyonov, but by extending his further activity of wines, having sent a lot of Russian scientists there, they continued yoga. At 1886 p. I. V. Ignatiev, having seen the Tien Shan with a special method to penetrate into the Khan-Tengri massif. Crimean ice floes of Semyonov and Mushketov, flowing pivnich over the Sarijas ridge, I. U. Ignatiev buv near the valley of Inylchek, avenue of the majestic ice-maker, near this valley. Not wishing for a special order, the wines could not be repaired by a stone hood of twenty-two kilometers of surface moraine. The other survivors of the Tien Shan were also impressed by their impregnability for a long time. The glory of the entire massif, especially the peak of Khan Tengri, turned to a new number of foreign scientists and climbers, but they did not get far enough to unravel this mystery. So, in 1899 p. The Ugric zoologist Almashov went near the Sari-Jas valley, but he could not guess the most complex orography of the Khan-Tengri massif. The oncoming fate was approached by Swiss guides with the Italian mountaineer Borghese, but the stench did not mind climbing the Inilchek ice rink, which made it impenetrable.
In 1902 p. near tsomu region buv vіdomiy doslednik gіr Altai and Tien Shan - Professor of Botany V. V. Sapozhnіkov. Vіn did not become obsessed with the robot for his specialty, but for the tradition of the famous Russian mandrivniki; having shoveled a wider area of descent, having robbed the rich peaks of the Khan-Tengri massif, climbed on the ice-covered ones and crossed it.
The height of the top of Khan-Tengri vіn was 6950 m, only by 45 m changing the current height, and having increased more precisely the richness of the anterior and advancing dolmens.
V. the same hour, at 1902-1903 pp. The Khan-Tengri massif saw the German geographer and mountaineer Mertsbacher. Iomu was able to build a sprat of convergence on another row of peaks and to go through the ice maker Pivdenniy Inilchek to the lower peak of Khan-Tengri, assigning the height of such a wine at 7200 m. But, unfortunately, the deacons of their hypotheses are allowed, by the time they were put together, put them on a par with the facts. This caused the great swindler in the orography of the Tien Shan, in which it happened to sort out and restore the residual order to the radian scientists and climbers.
To solve the rich mysteries of the Tien Shan, the Radyansk and mountain climbers penetrated the deep massif of Khantengri and overcome all the difficulties. Merzbacher was true to his failures, that "the high peaks of the Tien Shan are an indispensable place for satisfying love for mountaineering sports." Radyansk alpinisti zumili to bring that they don’t see love for alpinism as if they are self-sufficient, but they’ll always follow the order of the main tasks, we’ll put it in front of the development of the radyansk physical culture movement. The best way is to put your occupation in mountaineering at the service of scientifically advanced goals. And if you talk about love before sports, about those satisfactions, like athletes want to take up mountain climbing, or about those who beckon them at the high mountain, then Radyansk climbers have their own world for them. The stench will take away more satisfaction for them, the more important the convergence, the more and inaccessible the peak, the more it was chosen tsіkavih vіdomosti for tuition, the more the crossing was zustrіnuto and podolalo, the more friendly and respectful the collectives, p. by which the joy of victory is shared.
The great work of the Tien Shan was conquered by the Radyansky, high-ranking and mountaineers in a very short period. In 1929 the map of the Tien Shan shone with white flames, which would be necessary for the advancing expeditions, specially prepared and equipped for work on ice floes and peaks.
Radyansk alpinists came to Tien Shan at the same time from greatness and entered the yogo unreached areas not only for sport purposes. The stinkers vyrіshuvali scientific-historical tasks, deceived the folding orography of the region, glacied, made maps.
M. T. Pogrebetsky, a master of sports for mountaineering, having chosen the organization of the Ukrainian expedition near the Tien Shan, yak worked in the Tengry-tag region for a long time - from 1929 to 1933. Back to back, the alpinist sports group. Later, it grew into a complex Ukrainian military expedition, as it carried out a great work from a topographic survey; geological exploration and geographical event the Khan Tengri massif.
Pogrebetsky having set the main sports method of his climbing group to the peak of Khan-Tengri. After two rokіv works on Inilchek, detailed explorations of the route, on 11 spring 1931, Volodar duhiv, the Radyansk mountain climbers climbed to the th peak, raising the myth about the inaccessibility of Khan-Tengri and raising the top of the seventh. Radyansky Soyuz The group of Pogrebetsky made a miraculous convergence for the route, laying the ice pit Pivdenny Inilchek.
In 1929-1930 rr. From the lower side of the Stalin Ridge, from the ice rink Pivnichniy Inilchek, Khan-Tengri, the Moscow alpinists V. F. Gusev, N. N. Mikhailov and I stormed. I. Misovsky. We were the first to lead the horses to the Pivdenniy Inilchek ice rink. However, in 1929 p. Lake Mertsbacher rang out, which led the way of the ice-maker Pivnichniy Inilchek from the ice-maker, and the stench tried to change their route. In 1930 they knew the pass at the Sari-dzhas ridge (the pass of the Radyansk (Proletarian) signet) and passed through the nygo to the Pivnichny Inilchek ice rink, reached the yogo and saw the steps to Khan-tengri. In the coming rock, the group of G. P. Sukhodolsky went to the Pivnichny Inilchek ice rink across Lake Merzbacher, crusting with a gum inflatable canopy, and skeletal yogo shores. The group climbed up from the night on the Khan-Tengri shchili to a height of about 6,000 m, and then stepped up, having crossed the path to the top from the other side. Having seen the reconnaissance, she went downstairs.
In 1932 trip of the robot of Pogrebetsky's expedition to Tengri-tag. One hour in the Tien Shan, a climbing group of the Moscow House of Professor A. A. Litavet showed up at the Tien Shan. This is a small group, which consisted of only 4 people, saw the turns of one of the main water arteries of the Middle Asia - the Sir-Dar'ї river, made a descent to Sari-Tor (5100 m) - the head peak of the Ak-Shyyryak ridge, then went to pivden , to the turns of the river Dzhangart. Here Letavet and yoga companions hit the great ice-breaks and groups of high and important peaks of the Kok-shaaltau ridge. Zvіdsi, through the other pass, through the Terskey Ala-tau ridge, the stench turned to Przhevalsk, then they crossed the mountain ranges of the Tien Shan Kungei Ala-tau and Zaіlіysky Ala-tau and ended their route near the city of Alma-Ata.
In this rank, the group turned the entire highland of Tien Shan from pivnich to pivnich and, with its own rose, marked a sprat of its routes on the future.
At the offensive two rocks, the group of A. A. Letavet saw the turns of the river Uzengegush, the middle part of the Kokshaal-tau ridge. On the way to the most distant and most distant ridge of the Tien Shan, climbers made a trip to one of the peaks of the Borkoldoya ridge, near the mountain of Yogo with the Chakir-korum ridge.
The stench penetrated the entire region, passing to the branches of the Dzhagololamay river, and revealed there their own alpinist reserve - a group of ice-dwellers and the peaks of the zavvishka up to 4500m (5200). - corum; the earth here seemed to be full of innumerable heads and thorns"
"Dry Fog" - the empty pill Takla-makan - hung over the mountains and did not give the opportunity to look in the distance to the top of the Kok-shaal-tau ridge, and the group of A. A. Letavet rushed far to the Kubergenti pass. From the pass, you could see the turns of the Uzengegush and Ak-sai rivers, which take their own water from the ice-growing slopes of the Kokshaal-tau ridge, which rise here with peaks close to 6000 m in height. Having covered a part of the ridge, the climbers marked a number of ice-dwellers and peaks on the map, gave the name to the nameless peaks Kizil-asker (Chervonoarmyets, 5899 m), Dzholdash (Tovarish, 5782 m) and named the great ice-dwellers Vitokiv Uzengegu. .Grigor'eva and N.N. Palgova.
In 1934 Letavet’s expedition again straightened to the Kok-shaal-tau ridge, to the peak of Kizil-asker, and also troch on the way down to the moon, breaking through the river Uzengegush through the ridge. Warehouse of the expedition buv replenishment by young climbers I. Є. Maron and L.P. Mashkov.
The group made a test of going to Kizilaker peak. For two days of climbing, the ice-maker went through and lifted the scales of the majestic peak to a significant height. However, deep, fluffy snow and bad weather were covered with snow, and on the third day, the group descended into the valley, straightening to the slope, downstream of the river Uzengegush, to the turns of the right tide-river Chon-tura-su. There was an ice rink, named after M. L. Korzhenevsky. In the middle of the ice-floe, a group climbed the Gostrokintsevy Peak, which stood at the top of the Kremlin, with a height of about 5,000 m, and gave it the name Alpinist. Having created a climb to one sightseeing peak with a height of 4900 m, Professor Letavet finished his work. The midday snowfall, sizzling all over with deep snow, happened to leave this little-explored area, which at the same time is rich in mysteries and checks for a well-ordered climbing expedition, prepared for important sports gatherings.
In 1936 A. A. Letavet laid the route of his Chergovy expedition to the head peak of the Terskey Ala-tau ridge - Karakol peak (5250 m) and to the Kuilyu-tau ridge. This year the group of participants in the expedition was replenished by V. S. Klimenkov and V. A. Karginim.
Until 1936, the Kuilyu-tau ridge was left with little dosl_dzhenim. Yogo snowy peaks were well seen from the mountains, which otochuvali ridges and passes, but in the depths of the Kuilu-tau massif, no one came from the past of the Crimea, Professor V.V.
The Ugorian mandrivnik Almashi, who also guarded this ridge from afar, hung a little airy allowance, that the head peak of Kuilu-tau, for its height, is less than a trio of Khan-tengri. Exploration of this ridge became the main goal of the expedition. The Karakol Peak is of great sporting interest. Vіn priblyuvav alpinіstіv with its height, steep icy shills, warm crest and peak, which makes the shape of a trapezium.
Tsya pіk inform you in the glybini gorge of the Karakolki R_chka, the vast lishe is 40 km in Missta Przhevalsky, pіdіyshi to yogo pіdnіzhya, alpіnіsti softening Two Diva, was sheltered, Krizhan Stonna і Wieshley on Dovgiy Time, Gobin, Scho Dovseaє Najikh and Schiіj, Pіku Naji 5000 m Visiti.
On the top side of the summit ridge, one could see the Kuilyu-tau ridge and covered with a thick line of cracks an ice rink with the Kuilu river, which screams the sound of yoga. Gostrokintsev peaks of Kuilu-tau, napіvprikritі. they looked impregnable with the glooms that bulge out of the sunset, and the climbers staggered to mark a gorge, which could get close to them. It was obvious that the Kuylyu ice rink at the western part of the ridge could not serve as a path to the head peak, and the "key to the door" was followed by a walk.
With the method of further exploration, the Letavet expedition passed Terskey Ala-tau through the Chon-ashu pass to the Ottuk valley and further through the Tornu pass to the valley of the Kuilyu river. In the Tornu pass, the peaks of Kuilya are located equally; far away, but succumbing to gloominess nailed them.
In the middle of the field, Sari-jas, the expedition plunged into the gorge of the river Mala Taldi-su and roamed on the galyavin, near the ice-maker's mov, you name it yourself. The next day, the group of Litaveta went through the entire ice rink of Maliy Taldi-su and in its upper reaches found an accessible pass, which leads to one of the ice rinks of the Terekti river system. Near the ice rink there was not a single important peak, as if it were possible to take the top of the ridge for a lava. The disillusioned climbers, turning to the camp, changed the further plan of exploration in such a way as to make it impossible to descend to the Sari-jas valley and the long way down to the dry gorge. It’s worth it to grow, having crossed the wind, which split the gorges of the river B. Taldi-su and M. Taldi-su, and send the horses as a guide to the round, nazustrich. I axis, the coming day, climbers have reached their goal. The closeness of the completion of the exploration changed all the doubts of that exploration. Letavet himself speaks about the goodness: "We tried to find out the passage right at the head of the Velykyi Taldi-su river, directly to the ice-houses, where to live.
Climbing along the right (skhidnіy) gorka of the ice maker of Maly Taldi-su and forcing the skelny ridge that hangs over the circus of the ice maker, we actually leaned on the pass point of the ridge, which opened the gorge of Malaya and Veliky Taldi-su. Below, under our Feet, lay the ice rink of Veliky Taldis, and right in front of us, a hard trapezium-like peak, gleaming with ice, rose up with an approximately one-half-kilometer straight wall above the ice rink. Prote tsya peak could hardly be tiєyu, yak mi joked. These contours did not match the descriptions of the mandriving, as if they were looking for a peak from the top of Sari-jasu.
Along the steep rocky slope, we quickly descended to the ice rink of Veliky Taldi-su s tim, so that we could almost immediately go up to the ridge, which was visible in the yogi tops. The rest of the village in front of the village is already steep. Streaming hvilyuvannya, swiftly forcing yoga. Mimovilny viguk zdivuvannya vivaetsya z ours and right in front of us in the exchanges of the evening sun vibliskuet marvelous for its beauty, the string of the guest peak. With a two-kilometer wall, she rises above the ice rink and may not be tied to the superfluous system of gir convergence on it may reveal blame difficulties. The summit is very close - we are separated only by a narrow circus of ice-floe, which flows down to the bottom and, obviously, reaches the system of the Terekti river. It is quite obvious that it is, nareshti, that is the very peak, in the wake of which they have destroyed in the heart of the Kuilyu ridge. Ale, it is obvious that the height of її can hardly exceed 5500 m above the sea level. The evening creeps up unrepentantly. May, in our order, our name on the snowy Maidanchik of the village. Regardless of the severe frost, it will not be forgotten for a long time and everything is dear to the top of the bright moon, it is still more beautiful. Truly, it is one of the most beautiful peaks, that if they hit me. It is great to name the peak of the peak of the Stalinist Constitution. Massive well krizhan peak, bachen us from the pass, it is called a riddle that the president of the Academy of Sciences of the SRSR Oleksandr Petrovich Karpinsky died ".
The group didn't try to climb to the new summit, looking at the obvious folding of the route, the need to select a significantly strong climbing warehouse and short order.
Returning from the mission of the expedition, Letavet filled up the notebook with rozrahunka from the organization of the offensive fate of the expedition to the peak of the Stalin Constitution.
The miraculous materials brought by Litavet from the search for exploration made it easier for the climbers to participate in the perfection of the mystery of the Tien Shan. All my doubts fell down after the first glance at the photograph of the peak, as if I had pierced my alpinist hearts with beauty, the impregnability of icy rocks and evil avalanches of snowmen. The climbers looked at the photograph as a call to fight, and Letavet did not reject candidates for the fate of the new expedition.
PIK STALIN'S CONSTITUTION
The Letaveta expedition of 1937 was a natural success and a development of the exploration of 1936, which gave valuable information about the head of the Kuilu-tau ridge. So for the first time a serious sports challenge was set up, for the purpose of their accomplishment, it was necessary to strengthen the climbing group. For participation in the expedition, S.I. Khodakevich, N. M. Popov, V. F. Mukhin, I. A. Cherepov, G. I. Biloglazov, Y. V. Timashev, I. N. Osher ta St. I. Ratsek. At once, 9 climbers went out of the chief.
The main task of the expedition was the convergence at the Kuilyu-tau ridge to the peak of the Stalin Constitution and the peak of Karpinsky. In addition, in order to explore the new area, an additional task was set up - descending to the head peak of the Inilchek-tau ridge - Nansen peak. It is not enough to help climbing in the mountain junction of the upper Kan-dzhaylyau ice rink and from the highest point of the Inilchek-tau ridge to look back at the top of the ridge Kaindi-katta and Boz-kir.
For іsnuyuchoyu tradition, alpinisti mayut and earn their right to the fate of the tsіkavomu sports and pre-slidnitsky entry. Those who want to go on an expedition, organized by the central authorities, which cherish the development of physical culture Sports in the SRSR (VKFKIS and VTsRPS) were too rich. The priority was taken away by those who worked on the training of personnel for the Radian mountaineering.
In this order, four arrived to the Tien Shan after the course of young mountaineering instructors in Altai, and three - after the exploration of that convergence to the Manas peak near the Kirghiz Ala-tau ridge, in order to prepare routes for mass mountain climbing of the Kyrgyz Republic.
Three members of the expedition Popov, Biloglazov and Ratseku. tі, which zvіlnilis significantly earlier, caught up to the collection of all the participants at the Przhevalsk vikonati one of the missions of the expedition - first descended to the head peak of the Terskey Ala-tau ridge Karakolsky peak.
Before the departure from the distant Tien Shan, the mustaches of the alpinists of the expedition took a lot of preparation and acclimatization for an hour of forward work in the mountains. There was little further significance for the plan and good sporting achievements of the expedition of 1937.
BLAKITNE LAKE
On the cob of sickle 1937 From the Frunze place, the main group of Professor Letavet's mountaineering expedition climbed uphill along the valley of the river Chu.
For a couple of years, a second tonne machine overturned a wide valley and turned into a fiery Boomskaya gorge. Here the river Chu roared in deep gorges, the stones migrated and dwindled the riverbed, which cut through the high ridge. A winding climb took the road to a height of close to 1,600 m, and in two years the car reached the village of Ribache, planted on a gently sloping western birch of Lake Issik-Kul.
Wonderful Lake, sharpened by high mountains, is located in the very center of the Radian Tien Shan.
The first thing that opposes Issik-Kul's drink is the wealth of yoga zabarvlennya. Having jumped out of the car, the climbers went ashore, having sharpened their mustache, bright blue color. The blue sky loomed on the horizon over the dark blue surface of the lake. Closer to the shores of the lakes, it was light, flocking, beating themselves, we can see clearly. When bathing, you can see the leather fireplace at the bottom, you can see the skin of the swimmers near the black water.
Solon Lake Issik-Kul is its own, small high sea. It fills a deep depression, sharpened by mountain ridges, winding along the latitudinal straight line for 184 km, and in the meridional direction - for 50 km. The depth of the lake is 702 m near the shore, 300-400 m - near the middle. The lake has no flow. At the new one, a rich river and strumkiv flows from the most important mountain ranges.
In 1856-1857 pp. P. P. Semyonov, having visited the yogo shores and with the power of scientific penetration, explained the mind, in which the lake has spent a runoff - the river Chu. If the lake was much thicker, it took the river Kochkur, it yelled Chu from a new one. In this distant period, the Tien Shan ice-floods were thicker, the rivers were rich in water, and the Chu bored a deep Boomskaya gorge, ruined its channel and lowered part of the water of the lake. Then the river Chu went out into the lake, and it lowered its river even more and was left without a runoff. The reason for the entry of the channel of the river Chu into the lake has not yet been scientifically explained.
Vdovzh usy pіvnіchnogo shore of the lake to pass the ridge Kungei Ala-Tau with head peak Chok-tal (5168 m). Behind him, stretching straight across the Zailiisky Ala-tau ridge, on the pivnіchnyh slopes of the lake, the capital of Kazakhstan, the city of Alma-Ata, was planted for 70 km (in a straight line) from the lake.
On the shore of the lake, pass the Terskey Ala-Tau ridge, the head peak of which is called the Karakol peak (5250 m). At the exit from the lake there is a wide valley. He has a roztashovane in Przhevalsk.
At 60 km to the exit from the lake, the valley zigzags with a ridge, making it easy for caravans to pass to the territory of China to Central Asia. P. P. Semyonov-Tyan-Shanskiy and the first Central Asian native N. M. Przhevalskiy passed along the paths through the San-Tash pass.
On the shores of the lake, the respectless skies of Kungei Ala-tau and the dark green leafy slopes of Terskey Ala-tau are turned up. Such a peculiarity is characteristic of all ridges and winds of the Tien Shan. On the sony pripiku pіvdennyh skhilіv grow less grass, scarlet in tіnіvіh, prіvnіchnyh skhila, more water, growth fox foxes.
The shores of the lake are densely populated. Here miracles are wise for creatures, good for farming, gardening and fisheries. By the waters of the lake there is a rich ribeye - carp, osman and marinka, іssikul species of chebak. Piskarya, minnow and others, and rich trout in the rivers.
A highway road was laid on the pivnіchny birch, steamboats walk around the lake.
The mountaineers were thrown with all their luggage onto the forward part of the deck of a small steamboat. Water sloshed merrily on the sides of the ship. After a sprat of years, when the village of Ribalske already sank beyond the horizon, the breed began to frown. The wind is fresh, and the lake is full of wind with white ridges. Urivki hmar swept low over the water. Now the sun shone brightly, then gloomily, then a thick fog briefly suffocated the steamboat.
We raptomed for a kilometer per day on a steamboat across from the cicada. Rising from the sea and dark watery stovp. Vіn reaching a height of about 100 m, and possibly more, the height of the tower was not less than a meter. The top of the yogo flared up like a droplet of a mushroom, and it seemed to rise from one low cloud. On such a view it was impossible to see the whirlwind of the overt rush of the water column, which gave the whole phenomenon even more mystery. Nezabar we realized - tse buv water tornado. Vіn trymavsya to finish the trivaly hour and narešti zalishivsya behind the stern. We didn’t remember if the tornado was in the eyes, or maybe it broke up. The appearance of this apparition is explained by him, how to burn, how to stand near the lake, to shed the cremation of the twisted whirlwinds. In the presence of a salty wind, a bright sun, in the air of a cold, that they were gaining, like by the sea, I wanted to sleep.
On the seas, on the winds,
Nini here, tomorrow there.
Qiu song was changed by an alpinist
Krut pidyom and kam'yanisty,
And the backpack is heavy.
Sing a song climber,
Badyori is cheerful.
What are you merry, tell me,
Forget about it?
At the top inadvertently
We drank some of it.
We did not drink wine there,
Joy sorbnuli
Shire and friendship deep
Happiness shook.
Similar songs are folded by radian alpinisti at all our camps. Ring out, stink to take the motive of your own song, and the words guess themselves.
From the pier on the shidny birch of the lake to the Przhevalsk town about 10 kilometers, a water supply was needed. We moved home in a year, but for the time being we climbed to the high bank, to make a monument to M. M. Przhevalsky.
Radyansk alpinisti should never pass near Tien Shan, without seeing the grave of your great spiritualist on the road. All the life of this miraculous successor was seen in the service of science. Until now, there was no map of Central Asia. Vіn zapovniv tse greatness there was a flame, having charted the routes of their expeditions, which stretched more lower by 30,000 kilometers Nearly ten rocks in the provіv near these edges, twisting and putting dozens of mountain ranges, rivers, lakes, deserts and depleting people of miracles, more expensive descriptions of their routes on the map
The significance of Mikoli Mikhailovich Przhevalsky's self-imposed work, the results of which are achieved by the scientists, is already great.
For the Radyansk alpinists-dosledniks, the great mandrivnik Przhevalsky is a butt of patriotism, self-confidence, scientific drudgery, practicality, simplicity and modesty.
On the high birch of Lake Issik-Kul, Przhevalsky knows his remaining porch. At 1888 p. I was getting ready to leave Karakol (the old name of the place is Przhevalsk) at my pyata more expensive. Having fallen seriously ill, asking for forgiveness of yoga on the path of the survivors in Central Asia. Loves learned that the follower of Przhevalsky P. Until Kozlov, I left my will.
From the high bank there is a wide view of the lake Issik-Kul. Far away on the horizon, the black waters flicker out of the blue sky. The ridges of eternity go near the distance, and the contours of the sky are different in the blue of the sky. The wide valley flashes on fire, caravan roads go to the passes, which lead from Xinjiang. Alpinisti take away from them the image of an eagle on gold, which makes a monument to the great mandriving man.
We went to the Przhevalsk place, pishki, putting backpacks on the visa. Nearly cultivated fields. Here, at an altitude of 1600 m above the sea level, bread, vegetables and fruits look good. Near Przhevalsk itself, there are a lot of orchards in the outskirts of Przhevalsk with miraculous apple trees and pears. Ale stinks ripen here much later, lower on the plains, and we had a chance to be satisfied with berries and speedy varieties of apples.
A dekilka of days was spent in preparation for the caravan. Some of them prepared bags and boxes, packed them, tied them up, folded inventory, others hired caravanners and picked up horses from the collectives. It took less than an hour to store the special equipment brought from Moscow to the middle luggage of the expedition. It was necessary to have new chereviks, the guts of that dipping of the chereviks should be done in such a rank, so that one would add more.
Litavet vimagav, that the intestines swelled on the open hem, and the binding occupied more space for the intestines on the welts and soles. They picked up with a rozakhunka on the bedding and three woolen scarpets. We prepared for the ice routes, for the deep snow, for the frosts and the winds of the high Tien Shan. Seeing the dekhan’s house, it was wonderful to see people in panties and capelyukhs on a sony pripiku, that in the middle of the yard they dried warm winter scarves, mittens, and downy bedroom bears.
The message about the arrival to the Przhevalsk alpine expedition quickly spread through the mist. Budinok to a dekhanin (Budinok of a collegiate worker), which was the base and headquarters of the expedition, becoming a kind of magnet that attracts the cicavi, especially juveniles, to get involved.
As guides and caravaners, they went far to get the kolgospniks in Dyushembay and Amasbay. Let's look at these dosvіdchenih guides, like a caravan and a cook of the Expedition, they got a wizened, old Uzbek, who miraculously knew his right; on the bivouacs of the wines, zapovnyuvav dozvіllya their comrades at that hour, if you ochіkuli descent alpіnіstіv from the peaks, rozpovіdayuchi miraculous skhidnі fairy tales, knowing such vіn impersonal.
The place, awakened on a small slope, with arbors on a skin avenue, a mass of forest plantations and orchards, captivated us with its similar color. Przhevalsk copes with the defeat of the great fox or, virnish, the park. The great poplars grow much larger than the spores. Budinki stand spaciously, stomping around the gardens. Darkness and water chirp and see off the traveler.
At the vіlny vіd right hour they broke into the market. There were Kyrgyz, Kazakhs, Uzbeks and Chinese here. Fruits, vegetables, items of national toilet were sold at the market. Immediately, musicians and spivaks performed, sprite maistri sat on the ground, repairing the broken. porcelain dishes for the help of midnyh rivets, the karbuvalniks knocked out the bright little ones on the midnyh glechki, and the cooks prepared the herbs, seasoned with fire pepper. Lasunki tried various Chinese herbs and remembered for a long time the white halva, which seemed like licorice, but so strongly peppered that until the evening the throat and tongue burned like scorched.
BATCHENNYA ON RICHTSI SARI-JAS
The Terskey Ala-Tau ridge was the first crossing to the road to the snow. Knocking over the winds, the expedition passed through a kindred valley, passed a sprat of mazars (cemeteries), which they predicted with their architecture (Small forts, turned into the gorge of the river Turgen-ak-su into the leafy gorge).
After many days of the campaign, we said goodbye to the quiet nights under thick Tien Shan yalinkas and went to the Chon-ashu pass. From the nearest peak of this pass, one could clearly see the peak of Khan-Tengri, the Volodar of the Heavenly Mountains, although it was still close to 100 km in a straight line. Navit on such a clear facet of the great pyramid celebrated great hostility.
Otse top! Isn't there a way on it from pivnoch?
Dosі skhodniki climbed to the top only from pіvdennoї gorka iceovik Inilchek. Have 1931 r. Sukhodolsky's group climbed up at night, reached a height of 6000 m, but the great avalanche safety hindered the step, not reaching the summit.
The plant has lost its innocence, and the pivnichna wall of Khantengri still checks for new groups of Radyansk climbers.
After descending into a shallow valley, we turned downhill and walked again uphill to the Berkut pass, which is near the top wind of the Terskey Ala-tau ridge.
Having entrusted Dyushembayu and yoga comrades to lower the heavily loaded horses on Sari-jas, Letavet took the other members of the expedition and viviv їx to a small height from the pivdennoy side of the pass. This is a panoramic point overlooking the valley of the Sari-dzhas river, the Kuilyu-tau ridge and the Sari-dzhas.
Right on the afternoon, in front of the Berkut pass, three steps to the right of the river Sari-jas, like a stringy white temple, a high snowy peak with vertical scales rose. Before it, in a straight line, it was close to 30 km; The low mountains near the tsієї beauty-tops of the nibi lifted її above themselves and created the effect of lightness, mirage, primary tower.
We did not take our eyes off the peaks, we tried to remember the contours, we were afraid that we could see the raptovo. Litavet marveled with a grin at the praising of his companions and for the lilting warmth, which he frowned upon with his three close eyes, it was clear that he was more to the soul and our strife and our love to the beautiful mountains of the Batkivshchyna.
In front of us stood with all its grace, folding and beauty one of the most beautiful peaks of Tien Shan - the nickname of the Stalinist Constitution. The similarity to her was to our leading heads. The first riddle was quiet, as it was necessary for us to solve it, and we can only guess by guessing it, after that, as soon as we climbed to the top.
The form of the vertices, її's viscis, cool, Slіdi Avalanin, Blisz Lodovich Schylіv, Sodle's Sodle's Soderviki І Bagato Talking Alpіnіst about Maybatnі, Alla Doti, Doki Vіn is not a hex of Siberkod, Jacques are infant with Ni-Voschiti Tіlki mists,
From the ridges of the Central Tien Shan, the Kuilyu-tau ridge was the least developed. Dosі on tsey ridge no one climbed.
Topographers and geographers went to the Kuilyu-tau gorges, and all the way to the highlands. The Ugorian mandrivnik Almashi, a kind of bachiv of the peaks of the Tien Shan, but not having enough strength, bazhannia and humility, to climb on them, hanging down, that the head peak of Kuilu-tau is less than a troch below the peak of Khan-tengri. Ale is hardly so. Possibly, Almashi, marveling at the peak of that same month, worthy of us, but not confirming his own hardening of wines with everyday vimir.
It is necessary to say that the head peak of Kuilu-tau from its sides is nevertheless strongly affected and, having turned її steep slopes, weak in spirit, waving in the warm and evenly low Alps, foreigners can climb up to the rank of the most peaks, impossible for climbing.
Remain two rocks A. A. Letavet dedicating a small part of his campaigns to the upland of the Kuilyu-tau ridge. Nareshti, the last fate of you was far away to know the key to this riddle - pidkhid to the very bottom of the head peak from the gorge of the river Velika Taldi-su.
Axis scho rozpoviv us August Andriyovich about tsey pokhіd.
On the ice ridge, which gives rise to the rivers Ayu-tor and B. Taldi-su, from the pass, which leads to the ice dam of the dry gorge, the peak can be seen even closer to the top for five kilometers. Vaughn looks like a grandiose two-kilometer straight wall, on a high peak at the looking great pyramid with a small shoulder. This peak, the most beautiful of all the towers in the Tien Shan and the Caucasus, was called the peak of the Stalinist Constitution.
Tsikavo її roztashuvannya at the ridge. Here it is, that it will take into account all the nearest burns and nothing rises above them. So it's true. Ale below, from the gorges, її the stars are not visible. From afar we marked the її place, then we went up to the ridge, buried ourselves in a rich gorge and lost our peak out of respect. On the right, in that it does not stand at the top of a gorge, but is located on a windbreak and is sharpened by ridges. Ale all tse mi
could only guess, if they went to the end of the gorge. Until tsikh pіr nevidoma її dіysna height, it is possible to transfer between the views of 5000 to 6000 meters. At every time, it’s less likely to get involved in the mission after the convergence. Before us is such a serious task, that, following our plan, we half-heartedly climb to the head peak of the Inilchek-tau ridge to Nansen peak.
Behind the ridge of Sari-jas, a part of a snowy cap looked out, but the peak did not cope with a strong attack on us. All heads turned to the peak of the Stalinist Constitution, which rose from the exchanges of the early sun. Having begun the descent from the pass, we casually glanced at Yogo Bik Doti, the docks of Vin did not curl up like a crest of a white ridge.
We finished the descent near the valley, near the darkness. As long as it was steep, and the stitch was still visible, they led the horses on the reins. Ale below, in the darkness of the narrow and deep gorges, so that the stitches would not be tangled, they mounted the horses, relying on their feelings, they allowed proof. True, the horses in the darkness did not kill the desired wrong crock, and the smell of dima came ahead of the appearance of the fires of the fires of the bivuk. Zupinilis on a wide galyavin bіla strumka. The foot stomped on the soft, thick grass. Tse bula was not succulent meadow grass, but may be dry, thin and soft, like a kilim.
Nothing was warm, dawn, they didn’t set up plans. I spent the night on the grass feathers often predicted on the fireplaces, ice-makers and snowmen for an hour of poshukiv and the power of the equal place for the bait.
Svіtanok outposted Khodakevich's chergovy encampment for the vikonannya of their shoes, the fire of the fire. Grab the miserable pale-dung and dry grass - the yoma was helped by the nevtomny Dyushembay. Nezabara smelt the smell of boiling kawi and chergovy waking the climbers to the table.
For the first time the role of the table was successfully beaten by boxes covered with a piece of tarpaulin. Bouquets of white flowers made of delicious silvery pelyusts stood in tin cans with beautifully arranged flowers. Today, our table could be greeted by the descendants of the Alps. The stench has long been climbing on the skeletons at the shoulders of a red-blooded flower, and ours has embellished with a hundred silver-colored edelweiss. We have so much wealth in the Tien Shan that you stop paying respect to them. And not only in Tien Shan, but also on the Chuisky tract Altai and the city to grow the uzdovzh motor road on the banks of the river Chui.
Early vranci caravan viishov near the wide valley of the river Sari-jas. Near a tree, a bush. Dense dry grass covered the bottom of the valley and lay down the shilis. The river bore its own winding, shallow canyon. At quiet places, where the stitch went sideways to the shore, the river was hovering, there was not a bit of noise from the water.
Whirling around in a wide swirl of the river, we set off on our horses to shave and cut through the front of the caravan.
Stay! Archari! Razek shouted.
I turned around the ledge, ahead of the caravan, a herd of archaeologists rushed. Mabut, he didn’t want to be deprived of the rivers on the birches, and, relying on the swedishness of their legs, the stench went to the break at the gap between a group of climbers and a caravan.
We turned our horses and galloped ahead of the whoops. No one had a thought about watering, but everyone was pleased with the rare opportunity to marvel at the nasty creatures that passed 20-30 meters from us. Lowering their heads low, topped with gvinto-like horns, the geese rams rushed past the beak of the nearby mountains. Having rushed out of sharpness, the stench traveled for 300 meters and farther went crucible.
Having descended to the crossing point on the birches of a raging river, we respectfully looked around all the channels, trying to determine the depth and nature of the bottom on the surface water.
The explorer Dyushembai, having driven his earing horse at the pinist, and pulling two curly-haired horses behind him, they followed them. Three channels flowed along the wide bottling of the river. Vuzky islands made stone beds. Dyushembay choosing a path, trying to get through there, less driving and more behind the stone. And even then it was necessary to guess on the surface that the color of the water on the other places was bright, and above the great stones it was lifted by breakers.
The first two ducts were successfully crossed. The water of the trocha poked at the belly of the horses, and the stench did not exude stamina. The remaining, nayvuzhcha, channel appeared like a glybsha, and the water threw two pack horses, which went in front of the caravan. Dushembay, Ratsek and Mukhin were kindly wet, leaving the creatures and dragging them to the shore. For other horses, the caravan was given superior insurance for additional climbing hanks, and they were carried out on their own. An important crossing took a lot of time that strength, he had a chance to spend the night on the left birch of Sari-jas, on a clear mountain. In the evening, a cold wind blowing from the gir, and we set a mark to the valley.
Nezabar everyone fell asleep, only a small one, with ice-cold dung, the bagattya quietly spoke Letavet z Amasbaym. Amasbai is radiv, when picking up an advancing caravan, take gumovi bag sumi with you. Vіn calmed Letavet, having said that the horses, that they had crossed this year for an hour, cross the river, they did not mess up and were healthy.
Having had a good break at the ferry, Letavet felt relieved, splintering the horses on the very cob of the path could put a threat to the farther robot of the expedition. Vin having written down with his student that it is necessary to send the best nonsense to Sari-Jasi. That evening, the head of the expedition fell asleep with thoughts about the future acquaintance with Inilchek, the other hard and accessible river of the Tien Shan.
THE OTHER MYSTERY OF TIAN SHAN
The entry into the close proximity is always unacceptable. In mountaineering, it often has a temporal character, but sometimes the access to the tops is confused by bad weather and is used as a control term for turning. This time I had a chance to cross the Tyuz pass. The ice and snow turned out to be important, so for half a day they did not overtake the icemaker. In the deep snow, we trodden the road, then led the horses. Horses were forged, fell, they needed to be trimmed and insured. Halfway through the ice rink, it became clear that we could not enter the pass until nightfall, and Letavet gave the command to enter. They left the ice rink and set up a caravan on the nearest ridge of the end moraine. The horses were led down to the pasture, roosted on steep grassy slopes, littered with great stones.
We miraculously understood that from the wound, according to the good frozen snow, it would be much easier. Ale, having approached the power of the equal mission on the great stones of the moraine, still could not fix in themselves a little annoyed the company of the unperturbed zatrimka.
The cold wind blew continuously from the pass and swept us from the outbuildings of the bivouac. Unfriendly Inilchek.
Nareshti, having taken a bite of our vidkuruch, we got stuck in the mark, closed the entrances and lit the candles, so that the bears could get into the bedroom, write down at the notepad and reload the camera. The evening was not a little hot and hot. This high Tien Shan pass showed that more serious tests are checking on us ahead of us, and nastuvav climbers in a serious way.
None of them managed to sleep without a turbo. The wind mercilessly fluttered the marks, the cold made its way in the mustache of the crack. More than once we threw ourselves in and, mumbling in indignation, tied up the torn ties of the outlines.
On the Svitanka we stepped onto the ice rink and, without any hiccups, we pulled up the litter that had been prepared in the evening. Ale gave the place to the deep snow, bare ice appeared and I had a chance to put ice axes into the air. For horses, they chopped two (0.5 m each) slabs through the skin 30 centimeters. On the first step, the horses stepped with mistrust, but further on they walked calmly. The mustache of the horses was led along.
On the crest of the pass, snow and ice sank like crazy and dry pivdenn shili emerged. Having missed the caravan in advance, Litavet chose the alpinists, to look back from the pass and find a further way.
The spring slope of the Sari-Dzhas ridge from the pass was shaved with small osps, and then green with grasses to the very bottom of the valley of the river Inilchek. A wide flat valley sirila odnomanіtnym pokritty z pіsku and pebbles, cut through the winding line of the river.
Opposite the pass there was an array of Nansen's peak. Stepping into the Inilchek-tau ridge, blocking the tops of the main part of the ridge and panting over the gorge. From the height of the pass, on the vіdstanі 15-20 km, the entire peak of Nansen can be seen, like on the valley, at all its greatness from the very bottom to the top.
Ridkishna top. Varto is so successful, so that you could be immediately stunned with a look, like a tse nik. The hardened pіvnіchna wall shaves into the gorge of the river Inilchek at 2800 m. About a dozen mov go down pіvnіch to about half the height of the schili pіku, piercing them and ending with threads of white stony streams. Streams rush through the middle of the skel, fall in waterfalls, spread emerald herbaceous schili. Approaching the valley, the stinks are hovering around the dark green forests of the Tien Shan Yalin, which fills the depths of the gorges. The bottom of the peak is called green growth and the white of the bottom of the valley is sharply shaved with vertical urvishes underpinned by Inilchek old osipiv, conglomerates.
A number of buttresses underpinned abruptly shed a pike, like underpinnings of the majestic life. Between them you can see foxes and rivers. It takes over 20 km of the left bank of Inilchek and stretches along the deep ledge of the dry peak of Inilchek-tau to the canyon of the Kan-dzhailau river, which opens the peak from the sunset.
The shape of the peak of Nansen's peak is supernaturally characteristic - there was a guessing hat, a veletka deeply stuck on the forehead. The look is significant. At a height of 5700 m, here is something to correct the climber. Like a training peak, it won't be like a garn.
With a rapture, the gloom of a snow saw, which leaned from the back shoulder of the peak, turned its solemn respect. Increasingly growing, the white masses of dry snow covered the upper field, then they huddled on the ice and grew near the majestic gloomy clubs. There was an avalanche that jumped over a low skeln ridge. Vaughn rushed down along the black skeletons down to the tongue of the stepping ice, swayed along the old riverbed and through the green grassy sheilas reached the upper boundary of the forest. If in the sky the haze of the snowy saw rose, which stood above the fox, it was possible to pump into a new new wide clearing, sizzling with snow.
The avalanche in two months cut the way to the pidyoma. Tse led us to a thought, what better way to rise from the Skhodu; True, there is more snow, and a little more vіdkladnіshe. Mabut, it’s important to go through this path without snowshoes, then it’s easy to rhythm the snowy oven. The head of the expedition A. A. Letavet virishiv
Pivnіchna side of Nansen - tsіkave sports facility for future. Ale, until the first climb to the top is crushed, we will follow a good path. That pivnіchny skhil still needs to be given calm, and often from looking around the pivnіchnyh skhilіv and search for good paths there. We walk around the peak of Nansen from the sunset and penetrate to the yogo pivdennyh shilas by the intense ice rink of Kan-dzhaylyau.
On the top of the boulder, the peak was visible, which rose significantly higher than the snow giants in the lower part of the Inilchek-tau ridge, which is located on the nearest mountain. Tsya peak screwed up respect for the moment of exit to the pass. Looking at the peak of Nansen, we looked at the sky and exchanged respect for the unknown peak that intrigued.
Tse bov was a hostile pik, shaving on a pivnich with a steep krizhan wall. Pivdenniy yogo shil zdavavsya troch vіdkladnіshim. The basis of the face was attached to the navkolishni ridges. Judging by the light sickle, which helped outline the peaks, it could have been about 50 kilometers in a straight line.
For clarification, Timashev takes a map, orienting on the moon with a compass and specifying on the Nansen peak. Then we take an azimuth to an unknown peak, calculate it and put it on the map.
After Timashev climbers are chosen to check for the result of the young geographer's surveys.
Timashev to work a stab on Khan-Tengri and redo the first stab. However, Khan-Tengri was not so easy to look at. On this pyramid, often zakryvayuchi, the entire ridge of Stalin is projected, which will divide the ice-makers Pivnichniy and Pivdenniy Inilchek. Nareshti, the notch was broken and twisted on the map. There is no sound. The notch is changing again, - now everything is right. This peak is not marked on the map.
We are surprised that the summit is not marked on the map, as it is not only good to see, but you can take it as a guideline for the hour of the winter, the moon. Adje won, no doubt, no lower than Nansen Peak.
A. A. Letavet confirms that this peak is not actually marked on the map and represents the cicava and, perhaps, the greatest mystery of Tien Shan. We should not talk about those who suspected about її іsnuvannya and our descent to the Nansen peak, it is not planned to be vague. From the most important point of the Inilchektau ridge, one is sent to look back at the top of the ridge, take a notch to the top and, if possible, to go down the gorge, which lead to it, and the dry peaks. For the accomplishment of this task, it is important to add to the Tien-Shan the point of greater importance, the lower peak of Nansen.
For the instruction of Letavet, the geographer Timashev and the engineer Popov repeat and revise the marks of azimuths and try to take the signs of relocation for the help of our eclimeters.
While the comrades are victorious for the chief, they continue to look at the main meta - Nansen peak.
Amazing peak. Skіlki nіy characteristic rice. Such is the height, the steepness and the diversity of the relief, and everything is immediately visible. We especially admire the majestic circus, which opens on the westward from the westward shoulder of the peak.
From the month of our roztashuvannya, it’s possible that by stretching the mustache crest of the top of that steep fall, you can see a wide spread of ice, sizzling with soft dry snow. Ljodovik is a long icefall at a distance of about 5 km with a fall of 1.5 km. A part of the Inilchek valley is visible - an area 5 km wide, 30 km long, which flows through a winding river. On the expanded area of 150 sq. km - sand, stone and no growth of any grass grass. Lіvіshe can see the language of the icemaker. Not less than 20 km. the whole ice-house is sizzling to the stones. The abundance of stone on the surface of the ice maker is evidence of the yogo shvidka. About bezperervne and dositke shvidke vіdstupannya leodovik to speak so ovna vіdsutnіst kіntsevoi moraine. And such a bright surface moraine speaks about the intensity of the winding of the adjacent skeletal walls, about the uninterrupted rockfalls, that the ice rink and its tributaries swell almost on the entire width.
Seeingly ringing the trodden stitches, we went down and in two years overtook the caravan. Rіdkіsnі specks huddled on the board from the gloom that straddled the Sarijas ridge. Peak Nansen and the entire Inilchek-tau ridge were cloudy, and the bright sun flooded the snowy slopes, foxes, bows and that rocky valley.
From the depths of one, from the grassy gorges of the schila, as if we were walking, rising, slinking under the overhanging dark gloom, at the beck of the clear sky, there were rows of merry-go-rounds. The chain was less than one third of the arc, the scarlet shone with such bright farbs and so close that the photographers could not bear it and clattered with the shutters of cameras.
Nearly two years went on a search for a ford. Nareshti knew bottling with small vіdgaluzhennyam at the protoci. This time the crossing went smoothly. Having crossed the river, they turned at the bik bazhany fox. Five kilometers along the pebbles were given to us, having reached ten along the grassy slopes.
Uvіyshovshi in the channel of a small stream, which flowed from the slopes of Nansen's peak, climbed on a galyavin, sharpened with yalins. Not so big trees grew here, like on the slopes of the Terskey Ala-Tau ridge, but all the stench was streaked with odorous resin, specks that vibrated on the bark and needles. We were beckoned by quiet arrangements on warm and dry land. Nobody checked for a special request for a command to go out, and it became suddenly quiet near the valley of Inilchek.
PIK NANSENA
If the sun warmed the skins, it happened to part from the hotel night. The resinous smell of fox carried us all the way to Inilchek. We went down the stream, along the left bank of the river, now approaching a noisy stony stream, now moving away from the river for a few kilometers.
Ice-dovik Pivdenniy Inilchek is crowned in the ice-dwell Pivnichniy Inilchek (Reznichenko) by the great ice-dwelling lake, which bears the name of Merzbacher. This lake takes in water, which drains from the Pivnichniy Inilchek ice rink, and part of the thaw water from the right bank and from the right side of the Pivdenniy Inilchek ice rink. Kryzhana rowing, which streams the waters of the lake from the side of the ice rink Pivdenniy Inilchek, during the period of the greatest stayuvannya it breaks wide, and the waters of the lake run straight to the valley of the river Inilchek. Whenever the river turns over, it breaks its own new winding channel into sand, pebbles and boulders that cover the wide and flat valley.
Reaching the peak of Nansen, the caravan of the expedition passed through the bridle of the fast-moving scales of the conglomerate.
The one-man clatter of the Kinskys accumulates over the pebbles, without respecting it, but rather helping them to think about future convergence. We didn’t know much about what we didn’t know, how we know the way to the top, what promises us Nansen’s pivdenny schemes, how far and high it is possible to pass a caravan, snow or skeletons pass through the way of yoga descent? The Caucasian peaks with icy pivnіchnymi skhila and dry skelly from the pivdennoy side were miraculously predicted. Litavet is not yet on the Kan-Dzhailau ice rink, but let me tell you about those who went through it in 1936. Moscow climber Tamm. Tamma's group went to the Kan-dzhailau ice rink for a hike to the peak of Nansen through the sidlovina, which links the peak with a sustant giant near the lantsyug of the Inilcheksky ridge. For the recognition of Nansen's pivdenno-shidny susіd Nansen, alpinists far away named the polar explorer Amundsen, and the susіda from the chimeric vezha on the top called it the other polar explorer. Tsya name casually fell on a thought through a deaco similarity to the shape of the top with a warm cherevich, we’ll stop in our time; cim polar explorer.
Uzdovzh pіdnizhzhya Nansen peak, along the valley of Inilchek, it was necessary to walk about 15 km before turning at the vuzku tysninu, breaking through the river from the Kan-dzhaylyau ice rink.
On the plain, the valley of Inilchek, clearly rippling with pebbles, the horsemen let go the reins, and the horses, choosing the way, destroyed their magnificent caravan line. The stench roamed about a hundred kills away, not straying straight from the wild. Having given freedom to the horses, and the choice of the wild directly - to Letavet, we marveled at our feet, and more marveled at the high peaks and skeletons of the mountains.
Inilchek's over-the-arch gift has rapped us up. Tse buv rіdkіsny nepodіvaniy surprise. Just before the hour of bottling, the river filled the dry hollow from the bottom of the food. Nezabarno the bed of the river went hundreds of meters dead, and in the hollow there were close to hundreds of trout, which huddled in a small Kalyuzh, no more than one meter in diameter. Creations by nature itself, an aquarium full of fish, like a cauldron, preparations for yushka. Climbing-fishermen splashed the fish on the sand and radiated unfortunate success. After ten lengths, all the fish was spun, and zagіn continued its way, transferring variability to the daily menu.
Having passed through the clearing of Kan-Dzhailau, we climbed a few hundred meters along the grassy slopes and rose bivouac bagatti in the remaining radiant forest, near the ice-fall tongue. Before the temryavi, a couple of years were lost, but the need for the yearning of horses before entering the ice rink was stunned by the remaining flocks.
The navechir from the ice-maker turned to the Wislan Litavet, a reconnaissance that suggested the possibility of guiding horses to the ice-maker. However, for whom it will be necessary to virubaty descend on the steep slopes of the numerous hillocks, hollows, troughs and cracks that cut the surface of the ice rink.
The order of the head of the expedition about preparing before leaving for the ice rink was to prepare Khodakevich to prepare for the five-day assault. All climbers with ice axes should go ahead of the caravan and cut the road. The more climbers are able to guide horses through the ice, the more their strength can be saved for the assault on the summit.
Hid the sun, forcing the whole group on the ice. The sound of ice axes, the glare of tricks on the ice, and the cries of the shearing of horses, destroyed the calm ice-house of Kan-dzhailau.
This ice floe will cover a wide valley, which may be parallel to the valley of Inilchek and above it is blocked by the massive peak of Nansen. Lyodovik Kan-dzhaylyau is not visible from the Tyuz pass, from the other part of the Sari-dzhas ridge, as it is not visible from the valley of the river Inilchek. The ice rink is often revived by the firnovi, pivdennі slopes of the Nansen peak, and most importantly, the slopes of the slopes of the Inilchek-tau ridge, vzdovzh as soon as the flow of the ice drift, stretching close to 20 kilometers. At the upper part of the ice age, the cob takes the cob from two circuses of the wide circus of Nansen's peak and the windy, windy circus of the dry land, the peak, which is a happy lanka, which snakes the Nansen massif with the Inilchek-tau ridge.
It was possible to lead the horses from the v'yukami to the circus of the Nansen ice-maker, which flared up like a wide amphitheater at the Kan-dzhailau ice-maker.
The whole day was spent with a heavy robot, carrying out a lot of helpers through the ice rink. It was necessary for the bulo, the cream of the felling of gatherings, to insure the horses on the steep slopes and clear the stitch on the last moraine. Under the hour of the horse's pulling, which wedged at a narrow crack, had a chance to jam the hanks and unite the susilla of the entire small paddock. The deyaks and horses, better than others, mastered the ice technique and the climbers' wiguks fought well on the slimy slopes of the pagorbi, neatly brushed against the ice by the ice gatherings, swept through the washouts and the crack. For the help of horses, it was possible to throw the assault equipment and food products more low 10 km uphill with an ice rink, at a height of 3,700 meters.
The main tabir was smashed on the ice in the middle of the ice rink, opposite the Nansen circus. It was a wide circus, which was shaved along its entire width by a tight icefall near the bik ice maker. The cleanliness of the ice was turned on respect, and the presence of moraine may be clear, behind the vine of rare ulamkivs along the edges of the icefall. For the participants of the expedition, who are well aware of the mountains of the Caucasus, it was especially marvelous to see the peaks of the peaks and the ice rink, which flowed from them, not overburdened with stones, without traces of stone falls. Rigid rocks, de-no-de stood out on the peaks of the peaks, from a distance they were built monolithic. The snowy dome of the pik from the sides is shaved with steep hairs. From the sunset, under the dome, black skelly. Out of the circus, there was a path of convergence along a steep snow slope between cracks and slopes on the back shoulder of the peak. Vykhіd on skhіdne shoulder falling through the transcendental steepness of the upper part of the skhіlіv i. їhnої obviousї avalanche-safety.
The whole picture was embroidered by us in detail in that hour, while we were marking, clearing and leveling the ice, clogging up the ice hooks for stretching and preparing our impassive supper on the primus stoves. If Letavet zіbrav suіh to the delight, the skin climber already had his own thought and his own plan for carrying out the gathering.
But there were no people yet on the peak of Nansen, the route for the first hike could be chosen by the simplest path. For this reason, the main task was to be recognized by the head of the assault group, who was entrusted with the remaining choice of the route, which was carried out, and also the choice of the warehouse of the participants in the convergence.
The end of this meal did not call for a tribal discussion, and for the first time I climbed into my sleeping bag already in the plantation of the commander of the assault group, and before that, I fell asleep, having once again thought over the preparations for the assault.
The whole coming day - 24 scythes - bouv devotions to rozvіdtsi, collections and vіdpochinku before the assault. Povnya allowed to pass through the nights in a folded caravan from pivdnya.
paths. In order not to get lost in the labyrinth of the great icefall, Litavet, Khodakevich, Mukhin and Ratsek passed the lower part on the same day, remembered the place of the turns, marked the landmarks and marked the hour of passing the upper part of the circus, which was covered with snow, at night, or early in the frost.
Our group - Timashev, Popov, Biloglazov and I went to the western circus of the dry peak, at the very top of the Kan-Dzhailau ice rink, to the pass to the shore ice rink, which descends into the valley of the river Inilchek. We got lost in the accessibility of the pass, but were left unsatisfied with the exit from the new one to the similar ridge of the Nansen peak. Whose path appeared signifi- cantly steep and folded for a turn on the back shoulder. At the same time, the trail from the back shoulder to the dome of the summit did not look twisted, and the trail from the back shoulder to the dome did not look through. The obscure possibility of the undergrowth of a group of rocks has been lost, as the dome of the summit spirals out of the sunset. Not knowing the point, from which it would be possible to glance over this obscure country road, we still managed to climb over the back shoulder of the peak. Obvious problems of other types of convergence led to the death of an obscure windmill on the western side of the dome.
The cold month night felt good weather. Having left two markings on the main camp site, on the 2nd year of the night, the entire warehouse of the expedition entered the icefall. Shackled by frost firn kindly trimmed in mіtsnі snіgovі bridges over numerical cracks, guts nadіyno dug into hard snow, and we went swiftly. The sun went off, catching the whole group behind the icefall at the circus in front of the cob up to the back shoulder.
Tsey pidyom appeared steep, lower was given in the distance.
The sun warmed and melted the firna on the surface, The pace of the fluff calmed down. At an altitude of 5000 m, one of the climbers scrambled to the head, and the group began to walk around the bivouac. Having risen to a height of 5,200 m under the great skids, they leveled the edge of the crack and set marks. Before leaving, 200-300 m were lost on the shoulder, one year of walking. But it’s unlikely that it would be rational to go out at once into the wind and the comb and to inflate the strength of the participants. We single-handedly hovered the proposition of Letavet zupinitis to inspire the one who climbs 1500 m in a day with important backpacks on his shoulders, he is sensitive to everyone. Bivuac 5200 m appeared far away. All soon sounded to the point that from one side of the mark - a bottomless fissure, and from the other - a steep kilometer slope.
The next day, the bula was designed for a day with the method of acclimatization.
In the early morning, if the deep valleys were filled with dense dark, the sun illuminated two small marks. Provesniks of nasty weather - high plumes of gloomy rose on the pivdenny half of the sky near the stretched-out transparent plastics. It was possible to recognize the worsening of the weather, the prote is not so sharp, as it would have been in the Caucasus for the obviousness of the signs themselves.
I once again guessed the main warehouse of the assault group. With me, at the bell, Timashev. The other two are Popov and Ratsek. How far the reshta will go, it will be seen tomorrow, to that at once there is no more evidence of the complexity of the distant route. There is no such upevnenosti, judging by the signs of today, wait for the stamina.
The day passes, as the days pass by, which are carried out in bastings at an altitude of over 5000 meters. For most of the hour we did not climb out of the sleeping bears, or, we heard innumerable stories about the similarities of our comrades, we ourselves spoke, laughed together at the merry stories and anecdotes of the inexhaustible Sergiy Khodakevich. Looking at the plans, we discussed in detail the climbing possibilities of the majestic panorama of the Central Tien Shan, which was often seen on the pivden.
On the first plan, the Inilchek-tau ridge was visible. Behind him, the peaks of the Kaindi ridge stood out clearly. In the distance, the contours of the peaks of the Boz-kir ridge were visible. At the field of dawn there was a sprinkling of dozens of peaks
with a height of over 5000 m, and the grandeur of the panorama awakened our climbing passions. Before us is a reserve of five thousand peaks of the great region, where no human has set foot yet. Tsі krasunі-tops are checked on the Radyansk alpinіstіv, chekayut doslednіv. Tomorrow, we will climb to the top, marvel at the sight of the descend, at the exit and at the pivnich, see a lot of the same beautiful peaks that were not taken by climbers and not climbed by climbers.
Tien Shan is a large area for new geographical achievements and a wide field for mountaineering. We are less pioneers and we are trying to untie more than the main knots. For other radian scientists, those helpers-alpinists are left here in the region of prehistoric sports work.
The sun has set in darkness. At night, the bitter gloominess burned the peak, and the success of the great early exit had a chance to clear up. Just like enlightenment appeared in the darkness, the group left the bivouac, leaving two ailments of Mukhin and Osher in the outline.
Climbing on the ridge from the bivouac mav is approximately the same character as the front climbing from the circus.
Climbers, who knew the Caucasus, crossed the road with a pidyom on the Bezingiyskaya wall to the top of Katin-tau, and they knew a lot of things like that. The succession of one of the most beautiful snowy walls of the Caucasus with the snowy slopes of the Nansen Peak sang the snowy features of the high Tien Shan. On pіvdennih skhilah up to a height of 5,000 m, we tried to make inroads and not avalanche-free snow cover. I became more relaxed, and at an altitude of 5400 m, when I went to the ridge, I fell into a crack and got on the surface of Timashev’s respectfulness, which I built an ice ax at the snow and pulled on my motuzka. Then they sent a guardian. Heavy snow cornices hung over the crest and for a long time did not allow you to go to the edge. Nareshti reached a part of the ridge with collapsed cornices and looked down. Far, far away, at the bottom of the gorge, a winding thread of the turbulent Inilchek twitched. A three-kilometer urvishche with traces of avalanches and collapses, celebrating the beast with a great defeat, and all of a sudden wanted to go out to the edge. Here you save - you won’t save brushes! We went far, blowing the comb, boldly hugging the cornices. The ridge raptovo ended, resting against the skeleton. At the bottom of the valley of Inilchek, the skelya was shaved with a stream of two hundred meters, at the bottom of the Kan-dzhaylyau ice rink, the streams of rocks step by step turned into not less steep ice slopes, de-no-de-spilling with snow and traces of recent avalanches. The snowy dome of the summit covered the rocks with a great white chapel, To complete the semblance, fields of chapels hung over the skeletons with white firn ice, which called the domes. There, where the crest of the rear shoulder of the peak rested against the rocks, above it, standing out for 20 meters, massive cries hung.
There was something for the climbers to think about, to try to climb the dome. At an altitude of 5500 m we shot one of the most serious shifts.
I, as the commander of an assault group, climbed uphill with a great crack to pass at the dome over the skeletons. And to reach the cracks, to climb on the icy rocks and pass under the canopy. Obviously, it’s not easy, but it’s necessary to go after her. An additional group will be deprived of the dome, the docks will not climb onto the dome.
Difficulty was caught earlier, lower could be corrected. The icy rocks appeared covered with a thick ball of fluffy snow, without pressing an ice ax into it necessary help. On gently sloping slopes, we fell into the soft snow up to our knees. Ale, on the steep part of the ridge, I fell off the slopes from the waist to the waist and more often climbed uphill, trying to put my feet in the guts on ice and rocks, covered with deep snow. I pressed my left hand to the very shoulder, and with a crooked cutter, which is in the right hand, pierced the snowy torso and smeared it with a stick, as if buried, or a crack in the skeletons, so that, having perched on the її edges, create an additional support point. If a leg was seen in me, I hung on my hands and again raged under the snow with my smooth bones, until the teeth of the intestines began to choke and the possibility of growing a new crock appeared. I walked for 50 m in two years, breaking through a deep snow trench. Having exhausted myself in such a robot, I significantly changed the pace of prosuvannya. At the same time, too much self-love, not allowing me to see again the folding of the camp, and I, without singling out innocence, pidbadioryuvav myself with such thoughts. Important, important, but all the same I will pass here. I will climb up in spite of everything!
Timashev, who followed me, having started to freeze, maybe, he fell ill. Overwhelming ill health, diligently insuring me less, passing the wind through the aspirations of trampling the snow with an ice ax, but not in an instant podolat in my own mind the dissatisfaction of my povіlnistyu. At the sight of a trifling perebuvannya on the edge of a three-kilometer urve, a head spins at the new beginning. Zrіdka vin glancing down. Hmari, descending, closed the valley of Inilchek, but they could not grab the majestic sky at the sight of a thousand-ton cornice above our heads, that edge was pierced in one meter of evil.
The other two - Ratsek and Popov followed us close in on the trodden snow, they were freezing and obviously the little ones were annoyed at my freedom.
There was less snow under the eaves, white ice and rocks were exposed. I jumped more quickly to get out of the deep snow. Hard breathing. It was hot with a tribal tension. In front you could see a black skelny ledge, which, having washed out the ice, I really wanted to get closer to the new one and to grow, I wanted to use a small repair. Virubavshi a dozen gatherings, nareshti, pіdіyshov to the ledge, sіv on the new top, hammering a long ice-hock for yourself, tying up to the new one and feeling relieved.
Nareshti became able to replace an ailing companion and a little help.
After 10 strands, Timashev leaned down from the bottom of the rock and tied himself to Letavet’s hank, and after 15 strands, Biloglazov leaned on the ledge next to me and insured me for an hour of the magnificent lazin with frozen skeletons. Popov and Razek caught up with us and entrenched themselves on the ledge.
After scoring one more intermediary hook, I will again pishov in front and wiyshov 16 m to the right-hand side of the roof of the roof overhang, along the way clearing the rocks from the roof of the kirka. The top of the skel, which is made of gray marmur, is heavily ruined, and all the slits are sealed with ice. If it was necessary to score a chergovy hook, I vvazhav for the best zmіtsnit yogo in pure ice.
Vikhіd zі skel near krіzhan trіshchin buv clumsy. Ale rising from the bottom between two krizhanih walls was significantly more foldable. Resting my guts against one wall, and with my back and my hands against my back, I reached the crossroads, seeing with an ice ax the hand support. Let's sweat, knowing a new support for the back and left hand in the crying wall and having built the intestines into the protine, right hand I added a crigorape to yield from the left side or over the left shoulder. Nareshti, I felt relieved, if all the cries of the fireplace were gone.
In order to climb onto the dome, it was necessary to sit down and climb on four ice axes, driven one over one at the firnov's straight wall. Biloglazov was the first to go to the dome, I followed him. Popov and Ratsek followed us. For a long time we walked along the knee in the snow along the wide, gentle slope of the dome, and on the 27th sickle about the 17th year we were on the top (5,700 m) of the peak. Dorimuyuchis for the sake of Letavet, we respectfully marveled at the entrance, pivnich and departure, but, unfortunately, they did nothing. Gloomy screeched all the wrong things. A heavy gloom enveloped everything in a thick fog. Below, perhaps, there is snow, although at the top there were less than redkishnies. There was no wind.
Not knowing the stone on the top, they did not write a note about the descent, having accumulated notes in their books. Sivshi on soft snow, we have been checking in vain for clear weather.
The visible point of the peak was designated for the її opuklіstu, for the obviousness of the lowering, for the cracks, as if the mustaches of the domes of the snowy peaks ring out.
More than that, which drove us to the top of Nansen's peak, to marvel at the pivdenniy skhіd at the bіk of the mysterious peak, to strike the mountainous region, where the foot of a man has not yet set foot, - which we could not vikonati. On the descent they went dissatisfied with the results of the convergence. In rapture, everyone saw the greatness of it, became not richly illustrious and angrily looked at the gloomy darkness.
The descent to the camp of proishov is much better. You could not go up and down the ice that hangs, but go down from the cracks. For help, the motuzka is straight ahead, along the vertical icy skele.
The comrades tricked us like a permozhtsiv and treated us to a skin-friendly great kuhl of hot cocoa.
Well done! How long did it take you to climb onto the dome along such a straight wall? Mi, zatamuvavshi podikh, lashed for your acrobatics.
In the wake of Letavet's praise, it became warmer on the heart and the bitterness of the rose was smoothed out.
Skhodzhennia on Nansen Peak, in gloomy weather, due to daily visibility, significantly reduced the results of our practice. Having lost only a sports coat, even as we wanted not to encourage mountaineering in the past years from the mountainous districts in our Fatherland. It was a cover, so we didn’t bring photos, didn’t bring azimuths, to lay new paths in the Tien Shan mountains.
We spent the third night at the bivouac 5200 m calmly. Mustache slept soundly.
During the night, the gloom arose, and the bright sun hung up the ranks of the pickings. Pollpshennya wait straightened out our thoughts, but yesterday we had bad luck. I wanted to repeat the convergence to the peak. Ale, misfortune, wait, that lack of products forced us to move into a second assault. The whims of the weather called out some ardent commendations about those that the peaks of the mountains lead a baked war on the climbers, that they storm them, and hide behind them with a gloom, like a curtain of dim.
The further descent passed smoothly. Stan snіgu allowing wide krokuvati and navіt podekudi kovzati. In this order, for two years they went down to the circus, de ruh after two failures at the crack sharply calmed down. Bridges "let go". Feet sank in deep snow. Only in the other half of the day we reached our camp on the Kan-Dzhailau ice-house.
Nezabar Amasbay came with two kіnmi, brought to the non-Abiyak a piece of greased meat teke, and the climbers, who were hungry, gave the savory meat of the girsky tsap to the savory meat.
Burning tabir and burying backpacks on horses, we went down.
Looking around at the top of Nansen's Peak, we were already fooling around so that we did not repeat the convergence. Nezabar іnshі doslidniki come here. It was necessary to repeat the assault. Litavet zustrіv Timashov's nourishing glance and zrozumіv yogo without words - So, pardons began. Come and fix it.
ON THE PIDSTUPAH TO THE PIKU OF THE STALIN CONSTITUTION
After an important gathering, immeasurably pulling down to the grass, the glass, the fox, that sonny. Lіd, snіg і bare kamenі, cold і schodny vázhka pratsya, not safe that change on the skin crocі, postіyne pochutya lіktya - the closeness of a virnogo comrade, mіtsny friendly team - all the same, it leaves unforgetable hostility for all life. So you can survive on the path to the top, you don’t need to worry more than suvori, but radiance is cool, if the climbers are tired, going down from the top, they will eat the miracle’s coils of fat, bask in the sun, bathe, pick berries - in a word, turn around, like a day of recovery after a busy day
At the crossroads, the group of Letavet descended from the Kan-dzhailau ice rink.
The stitch on the ice-floor appeared to be kindly splintered, and only once did we happen to insure the horses. Descending from the tongue of the ice-maker, we overturned the end moraine and went out onto the grassy schyl. After ice-fall and skel, the smell of blooming herbs was even stronger.
The outlines of the green camp appeared through the turn. A lawn with great boulders, sprats of yalin and cascades of a stream that descends from the western slopes of Nansen Peak - the axis of which climbers jumped so at once.
We knew that our guide Amasbay had seen five guinea cartridges from the expedition funds for poking on paps. I took off five cartridges with five rounds of goats, one small one and four great ones. Five cartridges - five teke. Moreover, the least DAC is important for the least 50 kilograms.
Amasbay proudly marveling at us, if we were hooting at yoga brilliance. Vіn іz satisfaction, having shown us the mission on the navkolishnіh schilah, de bulo shot tech. It is necessary to say that Amasbay had a chance to climb behind them on the skeletons and grassy slopes at a height of up to 4-4500 meters. Down the road, dragging the dead goat along the grass, and throwing the skel off before that month, leaving the horse.
In the distance, watering for a few days saved us canned food and replenished our food resources.
Meat Teke was so tasty that the frying pans and cauldrons, in which black portions of fresh meat were cooked, were lubricated and boiled until late in the evening.
The next day, our caravan of viyshov from tysnini Kan-dzhaylyau and rushing down the valley of Inilchek. We went to the Kuilu-tau ridge. There was one more serious trial. Skhodzhennya to the Karakolsky peak and the Nansen peak we could now see as a training to the future.
At this hour, we realized that the weather began to cool down. The sun has turned black. All have turned their respect to those who around the neighborhood are pulling a light sickle. Sharp outlines of distant objects softened, the sky lost its pure glare and drooped. For a few days, a very thin saw hung by the window - like empty Takla-makan.
It was unbearably hot after the ice-floe on the peak of Nansen near the wide, sun-soaked valley of Inilchek. We took on storm jackets and shirts and put them on, sitting on horses, jumping out of them only in order to wet our heads in some kind of glass.
To smear evenly, Mukhin sat on a horse, either forward or backward. Such an over-the-top camp called for fire and smіkh comrades.
Fans of vitamins propagated the berries of prickly sea buckthorn, which is good for smoking spragu. It turns out that there were only a few berries that could grow enough along Inilchek. At the relish of the stink, the cranes are sourer, the scarlet may be successful in the unviable climbers, as if they drown out the fresh gust of ice water.
Amasbai and Racek, with the permission of the chief, took a small-caliber shotgun and staggered through the stitches along the misly route. At the bivouac, the stench caught up with us and cooked a stew from two hares for the evening. The rabbits were small, Sir. In addition, the myslivtsy made a sprat of babakiv, dried their skins and took melted marmot fat in cans. Even earlier, on the slopes, you could look at a rich teke, but after Amasbay’s distant watering on Kan-dzhailau, we didn’t have a marriage of meat, and Letavet didn’t see more patrons.
A place for the ford was chosen not far from the girl of Inilchek, the river spills widely, before that, how to collect your kalamutna water with the green light quills of the Sari-jas river. Inilchek roared, kicking and gurgling to the stones, which roiled under the water, and had a chance to spend the night in front of the ford.
Getting ready for the crossing, we started on the Svitanka. In the early hours the water had significantly subsided, but all the same it was too deep for our undersized horses. The very shore of one of the horses was thrown over, poked in the air, and it was possible to make a crossing.
At the right hour, a leader appeared on the other birch. Vіn crossed the river calmly and vpevneno, trimming on the left hand of the great black golden eagle. Tse appearing knowing Letavet - Kolgospny mislivets Torgoev. The golden eagle sits, clawing its claws into yoga's mitten. Ptah buv bindings for one leg, on his head bov clothes shkiryan cap, which flattened his eyes. Traders went to look for foxes. Call the wise man, let the golden eagle not navmannya, but he himself tries to reveal the game. After pumping її, vіn zvіlnyає golden eagle that znіmaє koppachok z yoga eyes. The domestication of the hut zlitaє burn down, then fall like a stone on the game and wintach zdobich. Even more often than not, I splurge on the wrong thing, as if I’ve succumbed to myslivets, but I’m sorry, I’m not marked as a myslivets. While the golden eagle fights for its zdobichchyu, softly put a cap on your head and take away the zdobich, not allowing it to be tormented. Like wild game hung from the pazurs of a tamed hut, it will always turn to its master.
Before him, as if to say goodbye, Torgoev showed how to cross the river more quickly. It appears that with great water the channel was broken up and the ford changed straight ahead. Having scurried through yoga with kazіvkami, our zagіn crossed without new steps, and the caravan took us to the gorge of Sari-jas.
The river Sari-jas on its way through the Central Tien Shan cuts two hard ridges with deep canyons. On the peninsula, you see the Kok-shaal-tau ridge from the Boz-kir ridge, and from the mouth of the Inilchek river you see the Kuilyu-tau ridge from the Sari-dzhas ridge. In this place, the stitch rises from the rivers on the rocks and rises above the strimky banks so high that the rivers are not visible from it and only the rumble of the water comes from below, to tell about those that are flowing between the suvorim rocks. On the great height, along the narrow place between the rocks, on the rock of the mountain stitch, cross to the right bank of the river Sarijas.
There, where the gorge splits open, climbers descended to the shore. Nezabar caravan veered through the river Sari-dzhas to one of the gorges of the Kuilyu-tau ridge, from which the small river B. Taldi-su blew.
Gorge B. Taldi-su stole us black currant chagars. Yagid was so rich that twenty quills were drawn up to satisfy our appetite and pick up a few currants for the road.
The B. Taldi-su valley has a rather peaceful character. Canopies of grassy sheaths, river woods, shores of food, calmly flowing streams, and snowmen of low peaks are less likely to be seen at the tops. The flock of the teke crossed our path, turning not looking back at the myslivtsiv, like they laid siege to Letavet with traps about the sight of patrons. Tsikavo, that argali love to graze on bows and gentle slopes, and the teke will choose their flock and place for walks on the steeps.
According to the well-known path, passed by him in 1936, A. A. Litavet was inspired and quickly drove the caravan to the moraine and hoarse, which the upper wild gorge gleamed.
Having left the horses on the upper bows, with important backpacks on our backs, we passed a steep osp, a small ice rink and a steep snow pass. Viyshovshi on the pass (4300 m), we were so close and near all the beauty, the sun was more dear to me, which set, illuminated the peak of the Stalinist Constitution, supporting with oblique exchanges its stringency and greatness. A two-kilometer-long wall sank into the darkness, and the mountains vibrated a snowy cone pika and saw the gendarmes of the pivnichny shoulder, which led to the new one.
Having placed our marks on the pass so that the peak could be seen, we began to identify accessible approaches to it.
A variant of climbing to the top along a ridge for the first descent, falling through an obvious steepness, folding and walking far to the exit to the ridge.
A hidden wall - two ice-covered Shkheldi, placed one on one - a variant of resurrection, which is obviously fantastic.
Pivnіchne rib is made available, but the other option includes the entire sawing of the gendarmes on the shoulders and not overturning on the avalanche.
Ale, so like the western side of the pik, was a pose by the field of our dawn, from the narrow-boiled pivnіchny variant, making it accessible and occupying the minds of the climbers.
NICH ON THE BOTTOM Eaves
The next day, we beat the peak of the Stalinist Constitution, which shone like a svyatkovo at the exchange of the sun, to go. Rank lighting helped to clarify the route to the exit on the pivnіchne rib and signify a sprat of avalanche roads, bypassing that crosswalk.
The warehouse of the main part of the assault group was abandoned by him himself from the replacement of Beloglazov by Viktor Mukhin. With Litavet, the reshta, the Crimea of Timashev, which at the pass of the sickness and turmoil descended into the lower tabir, were left behind. How many times has the interaction between the expedition groups been motivated otherwise.
At the same time, the main group, the Letaveta group, is small and close to the peak named after Karpinsky (5050 m), which stands on the top of the pass 4300 m at the same ridge, opposite the peak of Stalin's Constitution. Such a rally of strength, allowing the participants of one group to guard for similarities in others and at times, they need to come alone to help.
Opіvdnі the main group went from the pass, having taken the rest of the rest of Letaveta, conducted a deep exploration of the path to the top. Ahead of us about avalanche safety, Avgust Andriyovich allowed us to add more than the obviousness of amiable minds.
Those that were lost on the pass, stood for a long time on the edge of the urvish and marveled at the comrades. I didn’t feel a little anxious for my friends, that no one had to go through the route. What the stink is to hit the rich hard - it was quite obvious, but you can do it without knowing anyone. The stench forgot about those who tomorrow the lie themselves will follow an unseen path.
Behind the bottom of the pivnichny shoulder of the peak, the main group looked at the skies, marked the path of the distant ridge, and set up a bivouac approximately at the height of the passed pass - about 4,300 meters. From the mark, placed on the soft, lightly trampled snow, one could see the passage of an ice rink, a moraine, a pass, the teeth of the skeletal ridges left-handed, and the right-handed snowy, humiliated ridges with cornices, which led to the top of Karpinsky Peak.
Behind the rozrakhunk route of convergence, from this bivouac, the group is small to stay no later than a year ago, in order to repair a significant part of the avalanche-unsafe schila until the sun descent. Kindly rose the avalanche roads to the upper part of the schila. Ale below, the bula needed special care and respect, the shards of the straining avalanche could overflow the edge of the obscurely curved couloirs and drag the group forwarded to the child straight ahead.
That was the evening of the 4th of spring. Overwhelmingly warm and calm, without feeling the good, steady weather. Until the middle of the year, we finished the whole day's work, spent the evening and navit heated the next cauldron of water from the snow, so that early in the morning it was possible to cook more freshly. The cauldrons were put on a white bait on the bottom of the tunic and were resolutely covered in the frost with an assault jacket. Not trusting the calm weather, they misrepresented the established plan. Then we got teddy bears in the bedroom, squeezing under them folded hanks in a zigzag and all our own, as if in the middle of the night it could serve as a prosharka, which protected from the bottom in the cold.
In order not to crush the eyepieces, their sound was covered on the neck, and cameras, medicines, syrniki and other products in German packaging, which had a protective effect and the loss of moisture, were placed behind the corners of the pits or suspended under the stele.
From the objects of the mountaineering outfit, before the appointment, they took a sack and backpacks, and then they ran out of new intestines, dances with gasoline, kettles with water. Especially the turbot vymagali chereviki. It was necessary to take it out, clean it from the snow and put it with you in a sleeping bag, so that the stench does not freeze and the crumbs dry up. It is necessary to say that it was already unacceptable to the state, but we were told that it was necessary to dry a little night, or to put it in your sleeping bear. Rarely did climbers in the Tien Shan fall on similar nights so warm that it would be possible to put a cushion on them. Cі dribnitsі alpіnіstskogo pobutu long ago became the floorings zvichnym, so we were not interested.
Unexpectedly, the mustache calmed down and fell asleep. Ale, close to another year of the night, we were raptly awakened by Gurkit lavini. Having blown a strong blow to the wind, having torn the bait, then we gurkit and the wind subsided.
The avalanche passed close to us, and the gang was checking for a friend along the same trail.
Sleep rozvіyavsya residual. Perhaps, for this year, we have achieved enough success, and, having thrown ourselves, we thought about those who for two years would be separated from the baton and go off to the corner, accustomed to avalanches.
Another avalanche gurgled, if the primus primus merrily rustled in the sky. At the first moment, everyone was amazed at the blue half-light, but, having chatted with the one who gurkit called out not with a primus stove, they continued to get dressed. When the candles were lit, in the early silence, they finished all the gatherings.
On the cob, the pidom had a chance to throw a fresh cone of avalanche wine. At the darkness, an avalanche caught on the breasts, giving rise to an over-the-top ancient and crying out for incomparable respect. Far away we went on a steep, wide snow comb. Vlasne, tse buv not ridge, but weakly expressions buttress of the snow wall. We chose this path as a safe view of the fall of avalanches and as a guide to the ruin, straightened to the singing part of the summit ridge.
Feet sank into the soft snow, down to the knees. Such a deep snow, having crooked a part of the schila to the exit to the top ridge. We went uphill in a simple way, without zigzags. The one who was in front, swept up in a deep voice, and a change was carried out through the skin a hundred steps.
Shyla, turning everything around, the soft snow slumped under his feet. The rate of growth has been speeding up to about 50 m/year. Only a small group of people climbed onto the comb and broke the ridges on a hard ledge. Zvіdsi chekav pidyom on the icy ridge on the pіvnіchne shoulder of the summit. Glancing at the back slope, we crossed over, that the coolness of these slopes outweighed the technical ability of the group, and food about the gendarmes’ detours fell out of the way.
The other part of the leg, on the shoulder, in opposition to the first, passed through the hard snow, which is swirling with swarms of black solid ice. I had a chance to break the ice and often replace the insurance through the ice ax with insurance on the ice hooks. Before leaving, icy rocks were exposed on the shoulder. Tse new buv, similar to the one on the peak of Nansen, gray marmur, hit by numerous cracks and cemented by ice. Skeleny hooks in the new sky did not tremble, but the ice-cold ones shaved the marmur, which flew under the bites. I can’t speak, I can’t shake it, I’ll have to go far without intermediate insurance.
Such an organization of traffic, if the insurance is carried out from the bottom and the climber is unique insuring the whole length of the bun, is called in honest words, to that at the sight of the bun, it can break off. Rarely do you have such an unfriendly mind, if you are climbers, you go ahead, you have to be risky, so that you can ensure the safety of your comrades. Having left the backpack below and being in the middle of the fact that you don’t want to create the desired unhealthy mess, the advanced climber takes care of himself from the side of his insurer and, in such a rank, makes a mistake to stand in front of him.
After a stressed, important and rubberized foot, it is especially welcome to climb onto the upper part of the comb, wrap the skein around a solid ledge, hammer a hook into the crack, ringing, click into the new carabiner and shout down to the comrade
Everything is bad! Tie a backpack - I can win.
If all four were on the shoulder of the summit before the day of the first gendarme, it was close to the 17th year. Then, in view of the 14-year-old work, that coming evening made me think about їzhu and vіdpochinok. They looked around, but they didn’t run around near the least likeness suitable for the bivouac of the Maidan. Gostriy pіvnіchny vertex ridge on the shid was shaved at noon absolutely straight, on the west - krizhanim skhill close to 75 degrees. steepness, and the mountains folded in a row of hospitable skels, gaps between them were filled with great snowy cornices that hang over the abyss. Such a character of the summit ridge, apparently extending approximately 80 m to the first great gendarme.
If the wind started blowing all day long, we did not turn on the new respect, but the wind clearly sighed on the crest. The gloomy people were chipping at the top. The weather got worse.
The first call was made, and Popov and Ratsek went to the rozvydku at the searches of the equal city for the establishment of a name. The stench went through the ridge to the gendarme, after the first year they climbed to the top, and then went down back, as they say, not salty, more after the gendarme there was a failure of 100 meters, then standing another such gendarme himself, but there was no Maidan anywhere.
Evening has come. It didn't take more than an hour for a joke. Required bulo vlashtovuvatsya here nearby. For a night, sitting, you can tie a hank to the steps, clear a gathering for a night and sit on a backpack, and a whole lot of trash out. So sometimes you can spend the night on the rocks of the warm Western Caucasus, but here you can freeze with such comfort.
The oskіlka was not left behind, for the night they chose a great cornice. Vіn dosit mіtsno sіdіv on the ring of the comb between the two above the skeletons. They cut a shodinka in the same eaves for a meter, and from the other side they laid a bridge of snow and stone chips for about a meter, sob wiyshov maydanchik for setting up a bastard. That was my proposition. It was vikonuvalosya like a command of the commander, but a special spivchutya did not chime through the obvious yogo insecurity. To that, having built a maidan on the cornice, I myself, having laid myself on my left side, will sweep over the abyss. With the right insurance companies, you won’t be so unsafe, as you know.
The design of the designed maidanchik turned out to be handy and easy for the wicker, so in a year the whole building will be completed and the outline of the installations on the eaves.
Nareshti, it's time for the commander to take his place over the abyss. I tied the middle of the free hank behind the upper ledge and threw the ends at the entrance to the mark. Three alpinists tied themselves tightly around my sack, turned on their back and fell asleep.
The wind poured in gusts and hoarse on the thin rustle of grains of snow. Tremblings are pulled tight, and sometimes bass hums. The music in the alpinist's rozumіnі is small of the most lithe character, but I could not sleep. The troubles of turboti did not come out of my head.
Wiishli on the shoulder of the peak, and yet there are no more hopeful data about the ability to overcome all the gendarmes. And most of all, those that are warmer and, perhaps, the weather is futile. Products can be stretched for several days. But how long can you sit on this ledge? I wanted to speed up such a bivouac until one night. Aje at the time of the collapse of the cornice, the whole four hung on hanks over the river and ruined half the order. There will be another failure, and all the results of the expedition will go on again.
Why didn't you see the comrades on Karpinsky's peak? Sprat once marveled at the ridge, but did not succumb to anyone. Evidently, they are blocked by cornices, that one, apparently, is less than 10 km away, and it is important to look at them.
It turns out that our transfer to the relationship is equal to zero.
I thought about my comrades-climbers, about their careless slaughtering of this kind of sport. What are the benefits of our workers and engineers, teachers and experts in mountaineering? Chi tyagne їх at the mountain struggle with nature One else is not excluded, but supplemented. Our radian people, who know in sports one of the reasons for the development of miraculous moral and physical traits, the power of our people, pulling up to mountaineering a lot of intelligence and natural. With these thoughts, I fell asleep.
I prokinuvshis about the fifth wound, rassunuv pіdlogu naming і, wafting on the cloudy mist, not becoming awake chergovy. Testing of the minerality of the snow eaves was trivalo.
SIM GUARDIAN BEAUTIFUL KUILYU
The fog was so thick that it was not possible to see the big mountains. Having lifted the promise, we realized that today we would hurry nowhere.
Popov, marveling at the aneroid and looking at the note book, reminded us that we had sank lower. Yesterday, when we went up here, the height was 5050. In the evening, it appeared that we were sleeping at the height of 5110. And then we dropped to 5050. It was a sign that the weather would improve. Do not delay the testing of our snow eaves.
At the same time, enlightenment was in the gloom, like in the sky, the sun appeared, which vibrated with snow the cone of the top of the Stalin Constitution. The bright blue sky behind him showed the purity of the fresh snow. Nezabar suddenly began anew and the vision arose, nothing happened at all. At the succulent white fog, the annual chickweed was no longer visible.
Less than noon, the gloomy nareshti rose up. Our order has lost 6 running years. I realized that for this term, the convergence is not attainable. Looks like a reconnaissance, so that you can find a way through the gendarme and don’t lie tomorrow.
The first gendarme, having taken the guts, was healed for 20 khvilin. Racek and Popov went ahead. The top belay was given to the stalker on the offense of the link. So they went down to the bottom. Podekudi had a chance to see the krizhany shave and throw off the majestic shmatka marmur.
Another gendarme blew a pіdnіzhzhya zovsіm zledenіv.
Pravoruch, bridle the strimky skeletal gendarme navskіs and uphill yshov crying fast ice, sticking with a ball of snow, which pidtanuv on the sun. On this ice, the rise of the third gendarme was only 50 meters. The steepness of the ice is close to 70 degrees. And the gendarme standing with a wall about 100 meters high. Then I tried to try to get around the right hand, our intestines have not become blunt.
After pidrubavshi a small gathering, I hit the krigorub in the skeleton with a dzhobom.
Dribno!
Dalі lіd becoming comradely, but if I started to chop at a gathering, went three meters into the insurer, and richly pierced a wide layer of ice at once with a mustache virubanim gatherings. Catch hold shout Trimai! - I kovznuv down.
Mukhin insured the good and hung me, playing off the entire second meter of the motuzka. The comrades, who stood on guard, could pull me back.
Todi mi let go krigorubi. They lightly cleaned the armor of another gendarme, and then climbed on the new one, not knowing the guts. It was impossible to take the lead from the uscessions. It can be seen that on the pivnіchny botsі skele vіn lying for centuries. The guts rippled, rattling stone, and the hands forged on the frozen ledges. So what else, but for a year Popov climbed first to the top of the rock and helped raise the reshti. The descent to the pіvdenniy bik of the gendarme buv light.
Having been trained by the police, the third gendarme did not bypass us. They took yoga in the forehead for 30 minutes and climbed to the top. She was the same Marmur, she shaved with ice, like in front, only a little less for rosemary.
Dali Bulo could see a change in character. The fourth and fifth gendarmes were covered with snow, and grandiose cornices hung from them over the abyss. The hangings of these cornices protruded by 10-15 meters, their height was about the same. The backing of the cornices looked through the line of stone, stood out here from the winding side.
The sixth gendarme could not be seen clearly. Vіn buv kryzhanym cone, аlе snіgovі humps navolnogo allowed spod_vatisa on the possibility of yogo detour.
Behind the sixth gendarme, one could see a shallow, albeit to reach a wide sidlovina, and behind it, the shrines of the rooftop bath.
On the back edge of the baths one could see ledges of small skel. Dosvidnya walking on the cornice ridges of all the participants of the bounties of sufficient, to that, calling for a late hour, they didn’t go far and finish the survey.
Satisfied with the results of exploration; more brightly in a miraculous mood they turned to their quiet cornice. Before that, as if to get into the bait, they seriously revered the camp of the cornice and did not know the daily bases for fighting. If you don’t fall into the day, you need to think that at night, if it’s freezing cold, you won’t fall. Usі z tsim waited a while, but they didn’t resent the insurance.
The sun was sinking behind the jagged ridges of the back ridges. In the pink snows, the shelis of the great peaks, and below, from the deep valleys, the temrya was already looming and the shelis were step by step. The clear sunset of the sun saw the fullness of the weather. After afar, the moods of all the boons are so garniable, that no one could reproach the devil for milk, which burned down. After evening, we peacefully sat and wondered, like bathing in the warm sea and enjoying fruits and such divaks, so that you could take over the sea beach, climb the steep slope, sit hungry on the ledge of the creek and risk life a hundred times. But still, it is good to lay paths for science, for old people and climbers in the fight against nature. In the Caucasus, you go, for example, to Ushba - a miraculous route - on the skin croc, you follow the steps of a generation of climbers. Gaki are clogged, Maidans are crushed, gendarmes know for descriptions, stones are thrown off. And here in the Tien Shan, most of the routes are not similar, the skin ledge needs to be cleaned, the character of the skin gendarme is vivchiti.
With a friendly conversation, we sang to everyone in the mountain climber's song.
Yakshcho to the card, you pidnimesh,
To look at the contours of the edge,
You won’t get any hooligans
Unobtrusive width.
І skrіz - to the Far Descent,
Like a suvorian guardian of the native fields,
Burn high
On the borders of my Fatherland.
Let the readiness to shine at the glances
Become a moron for your Batkivshchyna,
Who is not ruined by the snowy mountains,
That one does not zlyakaєtsya in the same battle!
The offensive wound, ce bulo 7 spring, with the gathering of the sun, we went on the assault. For two years, three gendarmes, already known to us, have passed. The fourth, lower, yearning for more respect for himself, it was important for him to organize insurance on the new one. It is impossible to speed up with an ice pick under a thin ball of snow, the rocks appeared. It’s impossible to score like that - there was no clean ice, no free ice skel. These peculiarities of the way tormented us and hit us. They forcibly cleared us from the ice and the snow with a stone ledge, laid a skein on them, or built their ice axes into a crack between the cornice and the skeletons of the comb. Hopefulness
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
XML error: XML_ERR_NAME_REQUIRED at line 343
The team of the Tourist Club MAI and STC “Citadel” (metro Brest) visited the mountains of the same part of the Central Tien Shan. Regardless of those who didn’t care about all the buds’ plans, I went away. We got to know each other and took over the whole world by the region, passed a few mountain passes and climbed the three highest peaks of the Tien Shan. Below to marvel at the photo is about our dearest.
Let's talk a little about those who wanted to and who were far away to pass. The acclimatization stage went well according to the plan. Vin including the passage of two sightseeing passes of the Seven Muscovites (1B, 4130) and Chontash (2B, 4570) and the first ascent to the top of Doslidnikov Tien Shan (4490). Then, vyyshovshi on the Pivdenniy Inilchek ice rink, we climbed up the new hill and through the Komsomolets ice rink we reached the Schmidt Plateau Pass (3B, 5270), which had not been seen for a long time. In the middle of the slopes, we passed the traverse of the untrodden peak 5650 I, with the advance schedule, through the ice rink, the proletarian tourist descended to the MAL on Pivdenny Inilchek.
At the next stage, we planned to pass three vertical traverses. Ale, through the problems with my back, which winicked at me, and the first bazhanya commanded to go to the seven-thousand-thousanders, following the planned route, we were guided. Nadal moved to the neighborhood near the tops of Pivdenny Inilchek, sometimes for goodness they were divided into subgroups. At the result, through the ice-dwelling Rozirvany, they climbed the Khan-Tengri saddle (5800) on the Skhidnya and tried to climb on the v. Namet Zakhidniy (6511), went to Khan-Tengri (7010) and Peremogu (7439), climbed to the western peak of Viysk Topographiv (6815).
The path leading from the base camp to the ice rink of Semyonovsky loan takes 2.5-3 years. Designate the first camp to stand not directly on the slope of Pivdenniy Inilchek, but a little lower, hiding in the great avalanches from Khan Tengri and Chapaev’s peak behind the skeleny wind.
Seeing the deak euphoria as we set out on the route, we got drunk and read until late evening. The degree in the blood is also having the desire to fall asleep. At the result, they complained about the tenth, and the first nights became for the early passage of the narrow and unsafe village between the peaks of Chapaev and Khan-Tengri, among the people called a puffball.
Evening snowfall zamіv usі followed. The pidyom was rozpochali practically at the darkness. Likhtarik whimpering for less than 50 meters of ice maker in front of his feet. We walked straight up the mountain, orienting ourselves on the silhouettes of the great mountains. I was on Khan-Tengri 8 years ago, but all at once everything changed. The substitute for deep snow is firn, powdered with snow. That th descended from the zdebіl'shogo vzdovzh protilezhnogo board.
Before the cob of an unsafe month, we were ahead of the call. One of the peasants at the її skladі buv on Hanі of the past fate and swearing, declaring where to go through the standard path to the pidyoma.
The navkolishnіy landscape is bright, and the mountains are overflowing.
On the way up to the neck of the dance from Chapaev’s peak, an avalanche came down, which went lower, ale trimala in tension and covered us with a snow saw.
Trochs more than me blew a name with a divine person, as if I had the courage to put її in such a place.
Namet - a point in the center of the frame
Who wants to go down
Trohi is bigger than the icefall of the Semyonovsky ice maker, the tabir is 5300. For the rest of the gatherings, we could not bring ourselves to boil tea there and take a nap.
Upper Pivdenny Inilchek and Peak of Viysk Topographies (6873)
As soon as the three of us were taken down, and in the bergschrund, the Khan-Tengri saddle, we were lifted up appreciably fresh. Here, on the height of 5800, mark the assault camp. The further route by the back ridge of Khan-Tengri is practically supported by stationary handrails. Small maidanchiki for overnight stays at 6350 (for one name), 6400 (for two names), for 6600 (for one name), in the area of the summit.
In the region of 2009, at the same time, more plans for 5800 will stand at the wide, hoarse birch near the sidlovin, and there will also be fired ovens. There is less dme and bezpechnіshe. 8 years ago, I sat on a pivnich, practically from our niggas we saw a giant cornice, breaking off right along the stitches with vishkas.
Just going to Khan Tengri could not give normal acclimatization. That's why we were going to get up from the bivouac orders at 6400, set a name, go to the top, and then go down and spend the night. It is possible in the plan of adventure that such a plan would not be considered ideal, for those who would be smarter would spend the night at 6400, and the next day go uphill. But we were afraid of worse weather, as the forecast was announced. Virishili reached the maximum in their first weekend.
They took the tabir and close to the 3rd year the wound went up the hill from 5800. I was spared at the start by slipping through a group of foreign skhodniks, and Mishko stood up behind them and went around them one by one. On the way to 6400, I overtook a handful of people who were more on the way to the top and didn’t care on the descent, maybe the stench turned back.
For 3 years, I climbed to the Maidan at 6400, de already standing one namet. The weather was inhospitable, the visibility was obscured, the wind was blowing in part. Therefore, I didn’t dare to put our name one by one, and I took up virovnyuvannyam that dobudovoy maidanchik. Together with Misha, who was not barred by pidishov, we set up and stretched out the bait, in which they deprived of speech and order.
It must be said that going to Khan-Tengri for the classic route from the West Side is not a good sport. Practically strong thread of the railing allows climbing and descending from the top, whatever the weather. Today's order overwhelms the wind from a strong wind, the daily visibility allows for satisfaction, but does not stop the pidyoma. So, naturally, it’s cold, the wind blowing Volodymyr Stetsenok, they said that the drive couldn’t go uphill.
Even up to 6400 navit with a backpack, I thought to myself to do it fresh, then continued on without anything, remembering that the pace had fallen. Mishko, now, having added and pishov a couple of skeins in advance. Well, I tried to know the motivation for climbing to the top, but earlier, for a better route and without visibility. Having persuaded himself to continue the convergence for the sake of further acclimatization. Having overtaken Mishko in front of the "korit", he leaned against the line on the railing.
We obviously didn’t get acclimatized, so like a front exit to the top of the traverses of the Volinka peak (5650) with a night at 5300. I marveled at the people in front, that it seemed to be easier to go and all the same rested and continued to collapse uphill. And having understood that if I endure the stink, then I can endure a little.
We went to the top together with the Alma-Ata people. Pidyom vіd 6400 occupied close to 5 years. Physically and psychologically, it was important. After a couple of days we went to Peremoga easier and with greater satisfaction. Stretching a heavy dzerkalka on the mountain for a darma, having made only a few shots. Pivnіchny Inilchek was not succumbed there.
Mishko on top
They went down to the namet at 6400, they had lunch and they ruled for reparations. The forecast was said to be negative, but they did not begin to take care of themselves at high nights.
We rushed about the first night and hurried down. Passed the dance until the descent of the sun, about the 5th wound of the boulevard on Pivdenny Inilchek.
Zliva peak of Pogrebetsky (6527)
In the meantime, our main team climbed the Khan-Tengri saddle on the Skhidnya through the Rozirvaniy ice rink. And having tried the descent to the Western Tent, in the minds of the filthy weather, I was embarrassed to turn around and go down to the tabir on the seat. And there was no time left for a second test, having squeezed the control term of our zustrіch from MALI.
Vazha Pshavela (6918) that Nehru (6742)
Khan Tengri (6995)
Having risen from the team, we started to make plans farther away. It became clear that we could not continue the route planning and finally go to Peremoga. Zreshtoy, virishy, that it would be easier to go down to the top of the peaks and it would be easier. Until then, at that hour, hope was saved on the possible traverse of Peremoga.
The boys, who didn’t go to Hani, tried to go there. And before us, Vanya came from Mishkom, who was already a snow leopard, and we planned a walk at the top of the Zirochka ice rink.
Here, in the region of Inilchek, the main respect is to Khan-Tengri. More than a hundred people came to this fate in less than a day. Another part of the people is trying to climb to the peak of Peremoga. Other cicadas are accessible peaks, which can not be laid, adding height, respect for deprivation. At the rich six-thousanders of the Meridional ridge, we visited 1-2 times. Near the districts of lyodoviks, Komsomolets, Shokalskoe, Putivnik, and others, there were no five-thousanders. On the third peak of the Tien Shan - the peak of the Viysk Topographies (6873 m) rise very rarely, 1-2 groups in 5 rocks.
We didn’t have a lot of descriptions, we wrote our subgroup rising at the top of Zirochka and already virishit, that we were far away. They planned to plunder mizh Vіysk Topographers and Skhidnaya Peremogoy fallow in the field.
The path at the top of Zirochka led with a marked stitch to the icefall at the turn of the ice rink. Then we climbed the first tabir of Peremoga to pass along the p'edestal route of Abalakov and farther uphill under the walls of Skhidnaya Peremoga.
Zliva to the right go the route of Abalakov
In the center of the frame is the apex of the peak of Viysk Topographies
Near the central part of Zirochka there are no lakes. The ice dove is not broken much. A small icefall in front of the Shipilov Peak is bypassed on the starboard side of the icehouse. In order not to fall through, on offense, they dressed up the snowshoes and farther went into them.
Western peak of Viysk Topographies peak (6815)
Avalanche from the balcony of Peremoga. Right for Zhuravlov's route
Skelni walls of Skhidnoy Peremogi oppose steepness and scale. The sun may not illuminate them. Three layings here are not repeated.
Before the pass Chonteren, roztashovanoy mizh Skhidnaya Peremogoy and Viysk Topographers in advance did not go close to 4 kilometers. Vranci Mishko shrugged at the illness. Imovirno, not until the last day after Khan-Tengri, that fine day at the 9th anniversary of the transition is unforgivable. We went under the crossroads, but they didn’t begin to rise. Oskіlki vvozdal, scho vіdpochinok more productively pass below.
The coming day will be the mood of vidminny. On Chonterení, pishki were practically raised, hanging 50 meters of handrails at the upper part of the zlotu. From the Chinese side, one cannot see great folding. Therefore, the tourist category of the pass 3B is more intelligent.
Peak Shipilova (6201)
Plus, the route to the top of Skhidnoy Peremoga (6762 m) has nothing to do on the side of the pass (5500 m) and with a stream of snow to walk in a day. Well, with a sing-song supply of time, we can go to the roztasovaniya far away the peak of the Viysk topographies.
Behind the ridges to Skhidnaya Peremoga
Directly from the pass, near the peak of the Viysk Topographies, there is a narrow cornice ridge. Go to them at the link small group one satisfied.
More combs expand, turning into snowy slopes, which appear on a small plateau. On the edge of the plateau, a group of pictorial ice circles is planted. Vanya christened them with Juliiev's, to the fact that the stars of Anatolia often have similar forms to relief. Great swirls of ice break on the edge of the plateau and step by step succumb to the river. While getting ready for insults, they caught the trochs to walk and climb.
Array of Peremogi
Stіni pіku Vіysk Topographіv
Mіzh Sirakami Peak Peremogi
Tabir was erected at a height of 6050 under the scales to show the back ridge of the Viysk Topographies. While the lads were setting the mark, I managed to turn up the hill and take the trohi burn. In front of the eye, the entire path of the traverse of the team of Valery Khrishchaty, from Peremoga to Khan, was seen.
Tops of the legendary traverse on one panorama
Panorama view of Peremogy to Khan
Winickly plans for the traverse of the summit led up to future hikes, Mikhailo's oskelki, motivating the decision of the security of forces for Peremoga, to keep us company on similar journeys.
Lies were minted on us by new suits. Nearly 5 years old, the kіlka once was cowardly. Like a pіznіshe vyavilos, tse buli vіdlunnya seven-point Chinese earthworm. There, a small bergschrund beforehand, a 3-meter ice wall appeared. All our plateau asked, deep ice winds settled on the slopes. Podekudi zayshli collapsed. As soon as the lads rose from our other group, they descended from the Khan at the same time, avalanches came from Chapaev and Khan-Tengri at the same time, the gloomy saw flew to Inilchek. And the stench, literally for a sprat of khvilin, before that they caught up with the ice-maker Semenovsky for reg.
At the hour of the evening exploration, the first skelny gendarme of the winding ridge of the Viysk Topographers decided to do the folding. For yoga, I had a chance to hang a railing. That's why they climbed on the crest of me with a new path, walking already for the gendarme.
View of pivden
The amount of snow on the scales was decent. Sometimes they streaked with nast lashes, but mostly they had to swipe and not forget about the avalanche of insecurity. It was important. On the back, having taken with them an additional skein and having collected a skeletal harness, they forfeited all the prices to the police. For they realized that it is possible to grow out of serious technical folding, then in the lower camp it is not possible to reach the top. And everything that is simpler can be passed by the link.
Upper Pivdenny Inilchek
On the eve of the month, I went to the ridge and climbed the skelny to another gendarme, I went to doovga dіlyanka with cornices. We were more favored not by the stink, but by the real chances of an avalanche on the strimky rocks of the Chinese side. As if the mites were tied up for the whole length of the hank, so that the mother could alternately release one and the other and refuel for the stone to wash.
The weather did not take the pidoma, but it did not dare to turn around. Capturi and wind protection masks were worn in the frequent wind. Passed the cornices, walked under the skelny gendarme. The lower part was pierced by lanyards. Vishche I liz, troch tensed at the fireplace, and threw off Vanya's shawl.
More gendarme combs are expanding, that flock is simple. Ale wind and deep snow made me want to go. They climbed the Western Top of the Viysk Topographies (6815 m) for the daytime visibility. The tour knew the note of Kirikov-Oliynik-Parshin dated 2005, and in their own hands they knew the note of Sergiy Lavrov dated 1999.
The navigator was still 400 meters and 60 in height to the Golovnaya Peak, but there was no thought to go there without visibility.
It was fine on the knot
At tabir 6050, de Mishko, having played us naughty borscht, went down until 18:30 in the evening.
We got up early early, went down to Zirochka and reached the base camp, where they already told us, lads, that we successfully climbed on Khan-Tengri.
In the evening before us, the Iranian came to greet us, as the lads actually turned on Hani. For rozpovіdami, at night at 6400, about the 8th in the evening, she went down to the police until their last appointments and lost her seat. The girl did not have the strength to continue the descent. On the back of the request to go to the appointment, like on the proposition of tea, she won the vіdmova. Ale was put in a sleeping bag at the sleeping bag, warmed up, drank that bed at a normal station and straightened down.
After a few days, they began to climb to Peremoga. The weather ended for the moment. On the 10th sickle, the snowfall did not clear, the mountains blew out the wind. We figured out that the eternal scoundrels can’t show up at the end of the day, it’s only necessary until that moment to predict Vazha Pshavela. And call until the top day. In view of the idea of a traverse, a part of the team didn’t want to move so easily, they took an additional arc mark on that hill, at once choosing to live in a mark.
Seven of us lost our command. Zhenya flew to practice and then tried to climb to the Western Tent, and Maxim after descending to Khan-Tengri. And before us came three lads from Novosibirsk and Moscow. We climbed the mountain to go autonomously, but climbed together, trying to help one alone.
Dmitro Grekov saw us the radio station and gave us additional help, support and update the current weather forecast. Such a setting was more acceptable, but more so that we were not Ak-Sai's clients.
While the weather was on the Tien Shan, the people, vvazhayuchi, that the hour had not come, acclimatized on the Hani, having seen it at the base camp. As a result, since everyone was ready to go uphill, the weather turned up. Before us, through Vazha, three people went up, who helped the mountain for the first season, and four lads from the team of Novosibirsk passed the traverse, climbing after the route of Zhuravlyov and descending according to the classic.
On the 14th sickle we went uphill, vvahayuchi, that until the possible weekend on the 18th-19th of the day we were going to Vazha.
First crossing to the path to the top of the creekfall of the Dikiy pass. On the vіdmіnu vіd podshlý route, yogo first alpіnіsti on the mountain pass with new handrails. The cryopap itself is normal. More than a steep step, repeat the motuzka all the way through. Unsafe pidkhіd under hanging skids and ice-boxes under the cob of railing. Therefore, the icefall will pass until early or early, or closer to the evening, if the peak of sleepy activity is late.
Viyshovshi after an offense from the base camp, got up for the night about a kilometer away from the icefall. Closer zupinyatisya terribly through the mozhlivi avalanches and collapsed zі skhilіv Peremoga.
We passed through the crigofalls, through the snowy fields we went up to a small trough on the Dikiy pass. While getting ready for insults, you went ahead, you saw it. The oskelki didn’t promise for tomorrow, but the whole day they go up to the caves at 5800, so there from the comfort of the check on її polіshennya.
View of Zahidne Sidlo Khan-Tengri
Exit to Wild
Shed more wild than the Wild slope, but overwhelmed with snow and avalanche-proof. Dіlyanki deep snow cherguyutsya with fіrnovuyu doshkoy. They put on biperi and snowshoes. Trying not to cut the skins, they looked up the mountain, punching a stitch.
In the center of the frame, we passed the traverse of the Volinka peak (5650)
For obvious information we have, on the scales there were two stoves for three and six. Viyshovshi to the bottom of them at a height of 5700, as then appeared less, expanded them to seven people. Three lads from the parallel group went to spend the night more.
Overnight the weather was cold and it was very cold. For the time being, they expanded our oven, slew a select company of people who were going down the fire. The weather made him go to the top. To the food: "Do you see the stars?"
At night, the sprat once dug out the entrance to the oven. The whole coming day continued to take revenge. We have a swedish strength ration. Having lost without a wait and without a forecast, we began to search for information by satellite phone. One of our friends wrote on SMS that the strongest boards would be corrected on Peremoz, and the other added the English text, copied from the site, which reminded about those that everything would be even worse, but not without specifics. We were huffed by specific numbers in gloominess, falling off that force in the wind.
Bachachi, who are moving on the streets, and not looking forward to seeing the traverse of the summit, were left to rest, switching to radial convergence. Zayvі speech and dodatkovyy naming was taken out in the oven closer to obidu 17 sickle, if the troch was seen, it appeared on the mountain.
On the crest of Vazhy vіd 5800 to the top of 6918 sprats of rocky belts. The first one is on the heights of 5800 - 6000, the other is 6100 - 6250 and a couple of small plots are higher than 6400. In times of heavy snowfall, rocks at 6100 and 6400 avalanches are not completely protected. Indeed, an arcuate small baptism can be put practically on the edge, revealing a part of the schema. With a Maidanchik, you will have a chance to tinker.
Skelnі dіlyanki crest provіshanі railings. But the stinks are not updated, and they are less often duplicated by the forces of enthusiasts with new motors. The bits of the skein are beaten or without braiding. The rocks are simple, to that you should better yourself independently, insuring yourself with a jumar.
Evenings went to Maydanchikiv at 6400. Three lads, who were going in parallel, knew that the place was ready for their arc redfox. Well, we began to expand the Maidanchik of our great plan. After an hour, they drank on the human body, like a pіznіshe z'yasuvalos, perhaps, tse Popov Oleksandr, sipans here in 2012 like an avalanche. Having dug it with snow, they went 50 meters down, and there they dug up a mousse on the shili.
We will be maidanchik at 6400
The bodies are bent on Peremoz, the trochs are straining. I realized that the strength of that ability to bring down is simply not enough. Ale is alone on the right, if a person burns at the bait and bait and is mentally buried away from the stitches. Otherwise, if it's at 7250, the gendarme just sits dead by the Muldi under the gendarme. It’s not so easy to wrap yoga in a tent, but you need to know about it in advance and mother awning from yourself. You don’t bury a puff on a zafirnovanom comb just like that and in the snow, and you don’t know about yourself.
Behind the top of Nehru
Zhambil region always attracted mandrivniks with riddles and legends. We sit down on the path and rushimo on the road. Forward. Following the orders of these people of a frail age.
In post-tradyansky space, the phrase "I want to go to Dzhambul, it's warm there, my mother is there" is visible to everyone. However, few people know what is true.
- It's warm here. The second river near the birch can be picked mushrooms with bears. In the garden, when tulips bloom and grass hits the steppe, you begin to understand why the Akini praised their land - with pride Saken, our guide. – Ale, tourism is not our fault, if our region has something to marvel at!
This region is famous for its past, its history. Ale, on the pivdni of Kazakhstan, those who do not show the vipadkovy mandrivniks. In the steppes and mountains of the Zhambyl region, miracles were buried, created by nature itself and by human recitations.
- Tien Shan - eternal beauty. On the peaks of the peaks, the snow caps do not sink on the most special noon. Truth, courage, to go through all the fire, the need was chimalo. Wild creatures, strimki skele - nevirny krok can ruin life - Saken repeat more than once about safety in the mountains. Beauty is beauty, but you can’t forget about yourself.
Idahar
Our road in Zhambyl region starts from Kok-Kolya. Near the Tien Shan mountains there is a marvelous lake with crystal clear, troch black water. It's colder to wind at pivdenny summer speku. Live at New mysterious Aydahar, water evil spirit, which sometimes starts to stop and shout. The city dwellers respect Aidakhar with their talisman, if they want to be afraid:
- After that, yak Aidakhar let know about himself, you can go to fetch water. Vaughn is wholesome and even savory, - rose Asia, a sack of a village near the lake. - Golovne - do not spend on the eyes of a monster, even tighten it after you. And at Kok-Kol there is no bottom.
High gorge. Behind - a cave and a serpentine, in front - an urvishche. More often than not, birds will whisper to the wind. Here it is, that you will tell the history of these places: "Look, there, below, there are secrets and riddles of wealth." On the back of the head, it seems like a breath of nature. "You, I, and there is nothing more" - the wind cries after itself, everything is darker and darker and the sun is curling up. "Krok, and you will fly" - you may shout out, and down from the urvishcha fall dribnі kamintsі. Long-term policy and quiet "bump". Ryabka on the lake, the yak is not visible from the heights, but the yak is obov'yazkovo. Literally a few seconds, and the lake re-emerges brightly in the sun. Wind vshchuhaє, but not for long.
What is the most famous: wondrous sounds are not a guess, and the bottom of scuba diving in some places cannot be known. The wonders of Kok-Kol are scientifically explained. But don't let it get lost for vchenih. It is impossible to admire the smoothness of the lake and the blue sky, the stringy flowers and the majestic mountains. To that mi, after resting, rushimo to the offensive legend.
Tien Shan Diva
heart gir Talas-Alatau, Behind orders, - tse place of residence of the Tien Shan Divi. There are different legends about her. One of them says: “Teach її - know the mustache of the secret world. Just a little help її maybe the most worthy”. Another legend tells about those that the Diva was a real girl, that she went from the aul for kohanim, did not know yoga. So I got lost in the mountains, throwing all the people out of the gorges.
- A man, born of a legend, who, after waving a maiden in white at the mountains, waving a yoma, will not live long, - looking around at the impregnable girsky stitches in battle, rozpovidaye Saken.
Regardless of the gloom of history, there are plenty of people to walk around the Tien Shan in search of Devi, not being afraid to know death.
Shalsu
Found a waterfall near the edge. Yogo is torn apart from the indefatigable wild nayznitsa, which is right where you are at a distance. Ale, be it as if you were a stranger, you can reproach, like slacking off two gorges. Squeezed by velvet mountains, Shalsu becomes a calm, crimson river, yak, like before, melt in its own stone and low thresholds.
The sky, dumb from a fairy tale, - blakitne-blakitne. Yaskrave sun, spіv ptahіv and the flowery smell of the sky. I don’t see the heat of the grass, and I give up, I won’t change at the garden of Eden, I don’t know the order. Tsim pіdkupovat burn - marveling from the side on the spring grass, casually ask: "Who is the artist here marveling?".
- Saken, in the style of the rock, you show the memos, you know the leather stitch. And what can be the case, why are you blundering?
“Maybe,” our guide nods, “there is wild nature here. Soon after winter, I will go through the entire route. Step, burn - the stench is alive, the stench is constantly changing. And if Shalsu herself is overwhelmed with unchanging beauty, then the guidelines, by which one can know, will be different.
Kara Mountain
Another sumna legend hovaetsya in impregnable mountains. Behind the Chat-Kan gorge, there, de z Kara-gori, two waterfalls jump down and make up a lake, there is a legend about Mergen and a squad on the name of Zulaytag. Myslyvets Mergen killing the golden-horned companion of the gray goat. A ragged goat lured the thought high up in the mountains and z_shtovhnula down. Zulaitaga went to shukati a man and, not knowing yoga, wept bitterly on the top of Kara-gori. Paths of tears turned on the right waterfall and mourned the glorious Mergen. Let's protect the warto, looking at the Chat-Kan gorge: a wild goat and until that day to do evil to people, crying out from the snow in early spring, before the rain of late autumn, and do not skimp on the piercing wind.
A wondrous sight, but the weather here in the Tien Shan changes even more quickly. Snow, rain, bright sun - in a day winter may begin here, summer will end, and you may not remember the autumn winds of spring. Ale to wind a mountain near the fog, enchant the waterfalls and lakes. And the gloomy shines give a special look to the city. On the border between the river, that tight love.
Zhambil region is full of mysteries and beautiful places. Golovne - choose a guide. Not the skin of the mystic bagger knows about the basis of wanting to use half of the natural reminders. Ale є tі, who will come down to the Ivanivsky caves and lead them to the sacred balbals. An important mind - buti vodkritim for legends that opovіdan. Adzhe is the main memory of the region - all the history that began over two thousand years ago.
Maria TATARNIKOVA, Taraz